Learn to Navigate Winter Terrain with Edgeworks

Winter in the Pacific Northwest is renowned for its stunning snow-covered peaks and thrilling outdoor adventures. However, navigating these snowy terrains requires specialized knowledge and skills to ensure your safety. At Edgeworks, we offer AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) avalanche safety courses to help you explore the backcountry confidently and securely. Taught by local experts, our courses are designed to prepare you for winter adventures with comprehensive avalanche training.

Why Enroll in Our AIARE Avalanche Safety Courses?

Avalanches are a serious risk in the backcountry, making avalanche safety education crucial. AIARE courses are recognized nationwide for their thorough approach, teaching you essential skills to handle avalanche risks effectively. With our local instructors, you’ll benefit from their in-depth understanding of the Pacific Northwest’s unique terrain and snow conditions.

2024/25 Course Offerings:

AIARE Level 1: Introduction to Avalanche Safety
Perfect for beginners, this course covers the basics of avalanche science, terrain assessment, and rescue techniques.

AIARE Level 2: Intermediate Avalanche Safety
For those with some experience, this course delves deeper into snowpack analysis, advanced terrain evaluation, and decision-making strategies.

AIARE Rescue Course: Practical Avalanche Rescue Skills
Focuses on hands-on rescue practice to enhance your ability to respond effectively to avalanche emergencies.

Benefits of Our AIARE Avalanche Courses

1. Comprehensive Avalanche Education:

• Learn about avalanche science, including snowpack dynamics and contributing factors.
• Study real avalanche incidents to understand common mistakes and effective prevention strategies.

2. Terrain Assessment Skills:

• Develop expertise in evaluating avalanche terrain and identifying high-risk areas.
• Utilize tools like avalanche forecasts and maps for informed route planning.

3. Rescue Techniques Training:

• Acquire critical skills in beacon use, probing, and shoveling.
• Engage in realistic rescue scenarios to build confidence and efficiency in emergencies.

4. Effective Decision-Making:

• Learn strategies for assessing risk and making safe decisions in the backcountry.
• Improve your ability to manage group dynamics and communication in challenging conditions.

Why Choose Edgeworks for AIARE Training?

At Edgeworks, our commitment is to deliver top-quality avalanche education to enhance your winter adventures. Our AIARE courses are led by local instructors with extensive knowledge of the Pacific Northwest’s terrain and snow conditions. This local expertise, combined with small class sizes, ensures personalized attention and a supportive learning environment.

Ready to Enhance Your Winter Skills?

Prepare for your backcountry adventures by enrolling in an AIARE avalanche safety course with Edgeworks today. Our expert-led courses will equip you with the skills and confidence needed to navigate snowy landscapes securely.

Stay informed, stay prepared, and enjoy the winter wonderland with Edgeworks.
SIGN UP NOW to secure your spot! 

9.5MM / 70m reviewed by Kelsey Maxa

What do you love about the EAGLE LITE ECO DRY rope?

A lot of dry treated ropes are pretty stiff, but this rope is supple right out of the gate. Also very minimal twisting, which is common for new ropes. It was easy to clip and just felt really good in hand. The 9.5mm made it a breeze to belay through all devices. It has a bold “middle mark” line for setting up rappels.  Also, the color is amazing. Edelrid has really stepped up their game in the rope category, in my opinion. They are very focused on Eco and Green production, which is also a huge plus in my book.

What type of climbing did you use the rope on?

Primarily outdoor sport leading and some top roping. But also Trad climbing. Single and multi-pitch.

Is there any climbing that you wouldn’t recommend this rope for?

I think it’s a great all around rope. However, I wouldn’t recommend it for someone who is primarily looking to climb indoors, as it’s a thinner diameter and dry treated. The thinner diameter means it will wear out faster with major whips, drag, and use. The dry treatment and length of 70m is not needed for indoors at most gyms. 

Who would you recommend this rope to? 

Anyone looking for a trustworthy rope for multi-pitch use outside, for sure. It’s dry treated so it will get less dirty and remain dry in unfavorable/unexpected conditions.  

Here are few things details from Edelrid about their Eagle Lite Dry rope:

1. Durably, water repellent, and dirt resistant thanks to the PFC- and PFAS-free Eco Dry finish.
2. Water absorption of < 2% far lower than required by the UIAA Water Repellent Test.
3. Thermo-Shield treatment for pleasant handling.
4. 3D lap coiling enables instant use without tangles.

6 WAYS TO FIND A CLIMBING PARTNER AT EDGEWORKS

Our community is full of friendly climbers willing to lend a catch when needed! And while starting from scratch can be a challenging or somewhat awkward endeavor, the rewards for reaching out to others can get you on the ropes with a new friend in no time. 

Here are 6 tried and true ways to find a climbing partner at Edgeworks. 

BRING A FRIEND! 

Members can (and should!) use their FREE guest passes to introduce their friends to climbing at Edgeworks. 

Each member receives: 

• 2 free 1st time guest passes per visit
• 1 free guest pass per month*

*Free guest pass use is limited to 1/every 30 days for guests.

ATTEND A COMMUNITY CLIMB NIGHT.

Pop in for one of our monthly community climb nights designed specifically to help make connecting with people easier. There are several to choose from each month; hit the link to access our events calendar for more details. BELLEVUE | SEATTLE | TACOMA

• Monthly Climber Socials
• Women’s Climb Nights / She Rocks
• Climbers of Color
• Queer Climb Nights
• College Night
• Family Night
• Military Night

ADD YOUR NAME TO THE BELAY FINDER SHEET.

Our belay finder sheet located at the front desk is a great way to share your information with other climbers and let you take control of the connections you make.  

• Add your name and contact information.
• Check the list for other climbers.
• Connect directly or let our staff help.

ASK OUR STAFF TO MAKE AN ANNOUNCEMENT.

Find yourself at the gym without a partner? Let our staff help! A simple announcement such as this will have you climbing with a new friend in no time: 

“Attention Edgeworks members and guests, if you were hoping to rope climb with someone today, it’s your lucky day! We have someone at the front desk who is looking for a belay partner. Come on up to the front desk for an introduction.”

JOIN AN ONLINE GROUP.

There are several online options available including: 

• Friends of Edgeworks Facebook Page (moderated by members, not staff)
• Edgeworks Bellevue Climbing Partners Facebook Page (moderated by members, not staff)

BE STRATEGIC.

• Be an awesome belayer. Chance opportunities to climb with new partners are more likely to turn into long-term partnerships if you’re a solid belayer and taking our Intro to Climbing course is a great way to meet other new climbers. This course is offered discounted for members; click the link to sign up online.
• Look for a group of three. Look for groups in the rope areas with an odd number of climbers and ask if they would like another belayer. There is always a chance that the odd person out would be happy to get climbing sooner.
• Warm up on the boulder walls. Bouldering provides an easy way to be on the lookout for other climbers just like you. If you are unsure how to approach a group of boulderers, try getting in line to start working a popular problem near them.  Usually, other climbers are happy to share what they may have figured out about a particular problem and help you solve the puzzle.

YOUR GUIDE TO AIARE AVALANCHE COURSES

Winter, with its pristine snow-covered landscapes, invites adventure enthusiasts to explore the great outdoors. However, the thrill of backcountry touring, skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing comes with its own set of challenges, chief among them being avalanches. Understanding the nuances of avalanches and the skill of navigating snowy landscapes is essential for any winter explorer. 

At Edgeworks, we understand the allure of untouched snow and wanting to recreate responsibly. That’s why we’ve partnered with AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) to provide avalanche education courses. AIARE is the national standard in avalanche education with a mission to “save lives through education” at all experience levels.  Our courses are tailored to empower new and experienced mountain travelers with the knowledge and skills needed to more confidently travel in avalanche-prone areas.

WHY CHOOSE EDGEWORKS AIARE AVALANCHE EDUCATION COURSES?

1. Expert Guidance

Our avalanche education courses are led by AIARE certified instructors and ski guides with experience guiding around the world, from the North Cascades to Norway. Not only do they provide invaluable insights into avalanches and decision-making, they’ll also show you how to find good snow, keep warm in the coldest conditions, and adjust your plan for the day’s conditions,ensuring you are well-equipped for your winter adventures. 

2. Local Knowledge

Edgeworks guides are local to the Pacific Northwest and have been skiing and climbing in the Cascades for over 30 years. We know these mountains deeply and look forward to sharing our understanding of these places with you. 

3. Community Connection

Participating in an Edgeworks AIARE course, you have an instant community of folks who share your passion for winter adventures. By learning together, you also contribute to a larger culture of awareness and preparedness within the outdoor community, enhancing safety for everyone. Students in our courses often continue to go to the mountains together, long after the course has ended.

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF AIARE AVALANCHE EDUCATION

AIARE courses have been developed through decades of research and professional experience. Since 1998, AIARE has worked with guides, ski patrollers, highway departments, and the public to produce courses that are up-to-date, engaging, and offer practical tools for everyone.

1. Make Better Decisions

Edgeworks’ AIARE courses equip you with tangible tools to thoughtfully prepare for winter trips in the mountains. From assessing avalanche terrain to communicating with your friends, our courses can increase your confidence in yourself, your group and your adventures while managing potential risks.

2. Hands-on Training

We believe in learning through practical experience. All of our courses include field sessions where you apply your knowledge in and around real avalanche terrain. We’ll practice a range of avalanche rescue scenarios for small groups, identify actual avalanche paths, and communicate our assessment of current conditions. These sessions will further your skills and boost your confidence when facing challenging winter conditions. 

3. Comprehensive Learning

Edgeworks’ courses cover a wide range of topics, from trip planning, to route finding, snow layers, and avalanche rescue techniques. Our curriculum is designed to provide a holistic understanding of avalanches, planning and communication tools for your group, helping you to make better decisions before and during your trip. We also assist in developing a plan for continuing your education after the course has ended.

AIARE 1 – The foundation of avalanche education. Learn about avalanche forecasts, terrain, and the basics of rescue. Spend two days in the mountains putting your knowledge to use in real terrain.

AIARE 2 – Take your skills to the next level. Learn more about the snowpack, avalanche forecasting, travel techniques, and get mentored practice while spending three days in the mountains together.

AIARE Rescue – A one day course for practicing the skills needed for an avalanche rescue including using a beacon, effective digging strategies, group management, and what to do after an avalanche. Take it as a stand-alone, refresher, or with your friends to feel more confident with your touring partners.

Winter beckons with its endless opportunities for adventure, and Edgeworks AIARE Avalanche Education Courses provide you with the expertise needed to explore with more confidence. Our expert instructors, comprehensive curriculum, hands-on training, and community-oriented approach make our courses the ideal choice for anyone seeking to learn the art of backcountry exploration.

Are you ready to elevate your winter adventures? Enroll in Edgeworks AIARE Avalanche Education Courses today and embark on a journey in the heart of winter’s wonderland. 

 Adventure with confidence! Contact us now to start your journey.

Effective March 1, 2023

As climbing evolves, so do the technologies, techniques, and best practices we use to mitigate the risk of our sport. Effective March 1, 2023, all Edgeworks locations will adopt an Assisted-Braking Device (ABD) policy for all top rope and lead belaying in the gym. 

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?

Beginning March 1, 2023, non-assisted belay devices (ATCs or similar) will no longer be allowed for general use in our facilities. 

TOP 3 “WHY” FACTORS

1. Minimizes risk
2. Adds redundancy
3. Reduces human error

Moving to an ABD-only policy in our facilities will help climbers better mitigate risk in the gym; ABD’s help prevent accidents in a way that older style tube-style/unassisted belay devices cannot do.  Similar to seatbelts, ABDs easily add another level of security. 

FAQ: Click here for answers to the most common questions we’ve received about this change.

RESOURCES DURING TRANSITION

We’re providing several options to assist climbers through the transition, including:

Info Nights with Vendors. We’ve invited the folks from Black Diamond (Ryan Spivey), Petzl (Jay Dufrense), Edelrid (Anna Campbell) and Mammut (Collin Jenkins) to help us showcase available assisted belay devices and provide information to learn and make informed decisions on the products available. 

These events will be held from 6-9pm on the following dates:
• March 7:  Bellevue
• March 8:  Tacoma
• March 9:  Seattle

No registration required! We hope to see you there. 

Tips and demos from our staff. If you’ve never used an ABD before, our staff will happily show you how to use any ABD.  No appointment required, just come see us at the desk!

Free clinics for members. Grigris are not the only ABD only option! Our climbing school instructors are offering free 30 minute clinics designed to teach you how a variety of different active and passive ABDs work, how to use them, and offer recommended belay techniques for various models. Registration is now open, sign up online!

Free rental devices. We will have a selection of Black Diamond Pilots and Mammut Smart 2.0s available for use during the transition.

30% off all ABD devices in our retail shop. Including discounts on Black Diamond Pilots, Edelrid Giga Juls and Jul 2s, Petzl Grigris, and Mammut Smart 2.0s. 

(Limited time offers through March 31, 2023)

MORE INFO:

ABDs provide redundancy.
“In climbing, we use backups all the time.  We use them as an integral part of our systems and we often use words like redundancy and security when we’re talking about backups.  In every case, the basic concept is the same: a climber relies on one system to stay safe, and there is another system that acts as a back-up in case the primary system fails or malfunctions.” – American Alpine Club

Human error reduction.
“Brake assist was basically created to add a “belay backup” in case of emergency or misuse while belaying, with the added bonus of being able to hold the weight of the climber once activated. The basic concept is that in the event the rope moves too quickly through the device, for example if a belayer loses control, the speed and friction on the device cause it to move in a way that stops the rope from feeding.” – Weigh My Rack

Belay Technique
This policy change does not change the way Edgeworks expects people to belay.  As always, all belayers must maintain control of the brake strand at all times and be alert and attentive while belaying.  ABDs are not “auto-locking” or “hands-free” and should not be treated as such.

Am I doing this right?

by: Joe Stangel

It’s a word you will hear all the time when you’re hanging out with climbers – beta.

The word comes from a long time ago; in a galaxy far, far away. It references a time when climbers used to film their climbs on beta max tapes. People would ask each other for the beta tape of certain climbs to figure out how they did the climb. Nowadays, the word is thrown around everyday by climbers big and small. What is beta? What’s the beta? What’s your beta? There is often a big difference between those questions. 

Beta is a shorthand way to reference the sequence of movements that someone used to climb their way through a route or problem. It can apply to an entire climb or even a single, specific move.  As route setters it’s our job to create sequences that appropriately challenge climbers of all skill levels. A 5.12 climber has a different bag of tricks and tools of the trade than the ones a 5.10 climber does. Experienced climbers know how to use body positioning to solve more complex sequences rather than just relying on pure strength. One of our goals as route setters is to teach these more complex sequences to less experienced climbers. By positioning and ordering hand and foot holds just right, it’s possible to lead people into unique and different body positions. This is often what is called the intended beta. Our objective is to make sure that the intended beta is appropriate for the grade and to be the easiest way to complete the climb. But, it may not be the simplest or most obvious way. For newer climbers this is where the beta is often ‘broken’. 

In a climbing gym, route setters have nearly complete control of what hand holds and foot holds a climber can use. Because of this we have more control of the consistency of grades, both in relation to climbs of the same grade and climbs of the grades directly above and below that one. This leads to situations you won’t see outdoors. The most obvious example of this is foot holds on easier climbs (think 5.5 to 5.10-). At Edgeworks, the feet on these climbs are often nearly as big as the hands, only less incut and positive. Often they are sloped or flat. The goal is for them to be not as nice to grab onto than the nice, positive jug right next to it. This is how we ‘force’ sequences on the lower grades. This is often also where people create the habit of grabbing whatever they can and muscling their way to the top. After a few months, hand strength increases and climbers start to feel more comfortable using smaller edges and crimps. Next, those climbs that ask for more technique to get to the top become a little easier to get, think 5.10- to 5.10+.

This is when grabbing and pulling isn’t always the easiest way to do a sequence.  This is where the route setters are trying to teach climbers the different capabilities of their bodies. This is where we are trying to lead you into doing something a little different. It might feel insecure or awkward or require you to do something you haven’t before, but it should feel ‘right’. It should also make you want to naturally move through the sequence. Once you are used to it, it should feel easy. Easier than grabbing on that tiny, sharp foot chip, stepping up and getting fully stretched out to grab then next good hold. Which oftentimes will put your hands out of sequence for the next move. So a clumsy hand match on an obviously single handed hold is required to keep moving. I don’t know about anyone else but that doesn’t sound like a fun climb to me. Just because you can reach something doesn’t mean you should. 

These types of situations are when we see the most complaints about a route or problem being reachy, awkward, hard for the grade or just bad. It’s tough to hear and deal with. Not because it’s a negative review of our work, but because there’s no easy way for us to address it. We can’t offer the beta. We can’t help or talk you through the difficulties. We can’t offer little tips or tricks. We can only set the challenge and then hope climbers will accept it and be open to learning new ways to work through the tough spots. 

Modern climbing isn’t about just getting to the top, it’s about the journey you take to get there. Route setters create a maze, a puzzle for your body and mind, and we are rooting for you to get to the other end.

Metolius Upshot Belay Glasses

by Abbie Madlem

Our newer, taller walls bring better endurance training, new styles of routes, and all new projects! Unfortunately, this can also mean serious neck pain for your belayer.

Feeling the strain of the new wall and looking for a little relief?

Metolius’ Upshot Belay Glasses have got your back! These belay glasses are an updated take on the original, with a field of vision that aims higher on the wall, sports-style temples with low profile nose pads that fit better over glasses/sunglasses, and increased peripheral vision. They also come with a durable case that will protect them when you throw them in your bag for a day of climbing in the gym OR at the crag.

Next time you’re in the gym, ask about trying them out. Your neck will thank you!

The Petzl Sirocco – Guide Approved!

by Abbie Madlem

If you find yourself in need of a new helmet this season, look no further: the Petzl Sirocco is here!

It’s ultralight design is made to be the perfect combination of protection and comfort. The new design offers increased protection against lateral and rear impacts, and carries Petzl’s top and side protection product labels.

Our most handsome and well read guide, Andrew Powell, has this to say about the Sirocco:
“I use the Petzl Sirroco helmet for my ice, alpine, and rock climbing objectives because of its excellent lightweight durability. The majority foam exterior prevents the cracks, dents, and dings that other helmets acquire, and still provides adequate protection. Its lightweight construction is easy on my neck when looking up, day in and day out on the long climbing pursuits that I love.”

Tech Specs:

– Weighs in at only 170 g!
– Hybrid construction with a shell in EPP (expanded polypropylene) foam and a rigid crown injected with EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam
– Fully adjustable with magnetic buckle closure
– Two hooks and rear elastic for attaching a headlamp