Scarpa Force V
Scarpa Force V Gear Review
by Abbie Madlem
The Fit: To put it simply, the Force V is designed to be a high performance shoe with an all-day comfort fit (think Helix 2.0 or a performance-oriented Mythos).
• Stiff sole, a snug heel cup, and padding throughout the tongue and upper heel.
• Flat lasted with a slight asymmetry, which makes it a more technical shoe than cheaper models. You can think of the Force V between the Inti and the Mythos.
The Technology: The Force V was designed by Heinz Mariacher (who is known most notably for his design of the La Sportiva Mythos). It is constructed of partially-lined leather suede. From the ball of the foot forward, the shoe is unlined, allowing the leather to conform to the particular bend in a customer’s toes. From the heel to the ball, the shoe has a synthetic liner that ensures a consistent fit throughout the life of the shoe. It also uses 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber, making it a stiff shoe with optimized traction and lasting durability.
What really makes this shoe stand out is Scarpa’s use of Lightly Charged V-Tension Active Randing. Active Randing as a concept was created by heinz of Mythos fame. At its most basic, Active Randing employs rubber rands that wrap around the shoe in different configurations in a way that is designed to support climber’s feet, and store tension in certain directions to release energy in other directions. Still confused? That’s okay, Scarpa has an awesome resource to better learn about the Active Randing process here: http://blog.scarpa.com/heinz-mariacher-and-active-randing-in-scarpa-rock-shoes/.
How it Compares: It has a less aggressive heel than the Inti, and is designed more for all day comfort and performance than the Inti, though has a slightly more aggressive toe than the Mythos, not to mention that active randing will allow for more precise foot placements than the Mythos. It is stiffer and more precise (again due to randing and asymmetry) than the Helix or Origin.
The Cost: At a price point of $130.00, the Force V is cheaper than the Mythos while offering a trade off of comfort for performance. The price is the same as the Tenaya Inti, but will fit a different style of climber… because it’s a different shoe…
Make sure to check the shoe out and, more importantly, try it on! Know how it fits and feels, and who knows, you might just end up falling in love with it!
