Assisted-Braking Device Policy
Effective March 1, 2023
As climbing evolves, so do the technologies, techniques, and best practices we use to mitigate the risk of our sport. Effective March 1, 2023, all Edgeworks locations will adopt an Assisted-Braking Device (ABD) policy for all top rope and lead belaying in the gym.
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?
Beginning March 1, 2023, non-assisted belay devices (ATCs or similar) will no longer be allowed for general use in our facilities.
TOP 3 “WHY” FACTORS
- Minimizes risk
- Adds redundancy
- Reduces human error
Moving to an ABD-only policy in our facilities will help climbers better mitigate risk in the gym; ABD’s help prevent accidents in a way that older style tube-style/unassisted belay devices cannot do. Similar to seatbelts, ABDs easily add another level of security.
FAQ: Click here for answers to the most common questions we’ve received about this change.
RESOURCES DURING TRANSITION
We’re providing several options to assist climbers through the transition, including:
Info Nights with Vendors. We’ve invited the folks from Black Diamond (Ryan Spivey), Petzl (Jay Dufrense), Edelrid (Anna Campbell) and Mammut (Collin Jenkins) to help us showcase available assisted belay devices and provide information to learn and make informed decisions on the products available.
These events will be held from 6-9pm on the following dates:
• March 7: Bellevue
• March 8: Tacoma
• March 9: Seattle
No registration required! We hope to see you there.
Tips and demos from our staff. If you’ve never used an ABD before, our staff will happily show you how to use any ABD. No appointment required, just come see us at the desk!
Free clinics for members. Grigris are not the only ABD only option! Our climbing school instructors are offering free 30 minute clinics designed to teach you how a variety of different active and passive ABDs work, how to use them, and offer recommended belay techniques for various models. Registration is now open, sign up online!
Free rental devices. We will have a selection of Black Diamond Pilots and Mammut Smart 2.0s available for use during the transition.
30% off all ABD devices in our retail shop. Including discounts on Black Diamond Pilots, Edelrid Giga Juls and Jul 2s, Petzl Grigris, and Mammut Smart 2.0s.
(Limited time offers through March 31, 2023)
MORE INFO:
ABDs provide redundancy.
“In climbing, we use backups all the time. We use them as an integral part of our systems and we often use words like redundancy and security when we’re talking about backups. In every case, the basic concept is the same: a climber relies on one system to stay safe, and there is another system that acts as a back-up in case the primary system fails or malfunctions.” – American Alpine Club
Human error reduction.
“Brake assist was basically created to add a “belay backup” in case of emergency or misuse while belaying, with the added bonus of being able to hold the weight of the climber once activated. The basic concept is that in the event the rope moves too quickly through the device, for example if a belayer loses control, the speed and friction on the device cause it to move in a way that stops the rope from feeding.” – Weigh My Rack
Belay Technique
This policy change does not change the way Edgeworks expects people to belay. As always, all belayers must maintain control of the brake strand at all times and be alert and attentive while belaying. ABDs are not “auto-locking” or “hands-free” and should not be treated as such.
