Gear Review: April 2018

Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Shoes

by Abbie Madlem

Black Diamond’s Momentum climbing shoes have arrived at Edgeworks! This comfortable, entry-level model is perfect for the gym or the crag, finding that sweet spot where all-day comfort meets performance climbing. Don’t let the flat-last fool you! The Momentum won’t slow you down.

Check out some of the tech specs:

Knit Uppers: The knit fabric means that the Momentum requires less break-in time than its counterparts. The fabric is designed to stretch and breath where you most need it, which means less sweaty feet and easy on-off!

Microfiber Liner: The microfiber liner in the front of the shoe minimizes stretch, which means how you buy them is how they should continue to fit.

Neutral, Flat Last: The neutral, flat last of the shoe allows your toes to lie in a neutral position. This is more inviting to newer climbers (your feet won’t be killing you at the end of your session!). They’re also great for more experienced climbers that are looking for a high performance, high comfort shoe (perfect for long days of cragging and long gym sessions)!

Durable Rubber: The rubber on the Momentum is unique in that it’s molded instead of cut from one sheet of rubber. This was inspired by the way that BD forges their carabiners, and is their engineered solution to optimize the shoe’s rubber and rands for weight, consistency, and comfort.

This shoe is unlike any other beginner shoe out there. If you’re curious (we know we were!), don’t take our word for it. Come in and try a pair out!

 

Team Update: April 2018

Team Fundraiser 

On March 17, Team kids took several hours out of a beautiful Saturday and committed to making a contribution to the Edgeworks community by belaying anyone who asked; even some who didn’t ask! I’m proud of the way they represented Edgeworks Climbing, and they exceeded expectations for a lot of guests and members in the gym. Way to go Team!

This event was part of a fundraiser that ran for the month of March. The team distributed coupons for discounted Clip and Climb passes, and for any that were redeemed Edgeworks Climbing donated $10 to the Team. This resulted in a $290 windfall! Thanks for supporting our crushers Edgeworks Climbing!

All work and No Play…

Training for comps isn’t all work and no play. Recently Coach Josh took advantage of April Fool’s Day, albeit a day or two late. A few times a year, the Team will do a classic CrossFit workout called a “Murph” which consists of a one mile run, 100 Pull-Ups, 200 Push-Ups, 300 Air Squats, and another one mile run; all modified to fit the ability of the athlete. On April 2nd and 3rd, Coach Josh added a double “Murph” to the workout board, which all the kids are accustomed to checking as soon as they arrive at the gym. Thinking that the kids would complain or rebel, we were prepared to enjoy the looks on their faces when we revealed the joke. The joke was on us. Almost every kid was enthusiastic, or at the very least, resigned to digging in and doing the work, even going so far as to be disappointed when we called it off! Gotta give it to the kids who are willing to put in hard work every day with a smile on every face!

Upcoming Events

 –  April 7 Local comp @ Redmond Vertical World

 –  April 21 Local comp @ Island Rock Gym, Bainbridge Island

 –  April 28 Local comp @ ClubSport, Tigard, OR

April Birthdays

Maya: April 6  |  Gabriel: April 10  |  Grace: April 17

Social Media

Check the lobby bulletin board, Facebook and Instagram for Team Edgeworks news and information.

Next PCA Meeting

April 16, 6:30p in the upstairs lounge.

Contact Info.

Lisa Ferazza, Team Manager
Phone: 253-564-4899
E-Mail: lisa@edgeworksclimbing.com

Spring Bouldering Series 3

Spring Bouldering Series 3

Wednesday Nights: March 7th – April 11th
8:00pm – 9:30pm | FREE for Members

RESULTS: Final ←(click the link for CURRENT RESULTS)
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Compete with friends on the newest problems in the gym with our
3rd Annual Spring Bouldering Series!

This 6-week series is designed to be 3 competitions in one with trophies awarded for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place overall winners; recognition for “most improved”, “most inspirational”, etc; and a variety of weekly challenges worked in to each competition.

Regardless of your climbing ability (strong or newbie), this is sure to be a fun social experiment – er, EXPERIENCE –  for everyone involved.

If Wednesday nights aren’t your thing, we’ll have other options to join the competition throughout the week but with a bit less structure and community. Simply collect your scorecard from the desk and follow the route labels for the week. 

SIGN UP ONLINE or AT THE FRONT DESK!

Competition Categories:

(Male and female categories split into 3 difficulties)
V0 – V2   |   V3 – V5   |   V6+

Format:

4 redpoint competitions (in which points are gained only if the problem is completed)
2 surprise category comps

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AWARDS NIGHT!

Wednesday, April 18 @ 8:00pm
Join us for a FUN NIGHT of celebration including custom made trophies for category winners and outstanding participant recognition. Plus, some free beer because… why not?

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Member Spotlight: Mar 2018

The Legener Family

Members since 2016

How did your family start climbing?

Family introduced us to the great sport of going up and pulling harder. Jason has climbed a few times per year for 10 years, the rest of the family joined in earnest in July of 2016.

Why do you climb at Edgeworks?

A few different reasons honestly. It’s the best game in town and we don’t want to travel for a gym. What keeps us coming in as often as we do is the environment created and the friendships generated and nurtured by the front desk staff who we like to consider friends and not employees. The route selection and ability to go up and pull harder on new indoor projects is also a big plus as are the classes like yoga.

Where are your favorite places to climb outside?

Jason’s views of climbing really just opened up at Smith Rock for it’s sheer beauty, short hike from the Bivy and variety of routes. As a family we like the John Wayne Trail at Exit 38 for it’s ease of access for Jillian and Mia with comfortable and safe(ish) areas to set up a blanket where they can chill when not climbing. The climbs at Vantage do seem to suit J&M’s ability to go up and pull harder a little more however!

What do you do when you’re not climbing?

When not climbing, Jason likes to buy climbing gear, watch climbing videos and discuss climbing with an (un)willing listener. Megan enjoys crafts, being the personal Uber to J&M for their various activities and Facebook stalking her friends and foes. Jillian and Mia love to swim, dance, play various sports, books and coloring. They can often be found at the gym climbing a little, playing on their ipads, brushing holds, wiping down some padding or drawing and coloring pictures for anyone willing to take one and promise to hang on their wall or fridge.

What are some interesting facts that you’d like to share with the Edgeworks community?

Statistics have shown the leading probability of the cause of Jason and Megan’s eventual divorce will be Jason’s foray into Trad climbing and the subsequent purchase of a quadruple rack, 3 more ropes, 74 slings and 273 more carabiners, a Sprinter Van w/buildout along with a new house to store it in.

What’s your go-to route grade?

Indoors, Jason enjoys climbing in the 5.11’s and V4’s, Megan loves some 5.9’s and J&M enjoy going up and pulling harder in the 5.6/5.7 range. Mostly J&M like to Peter Pan down (lower). Outside the grades have been much more conservative, in the 5.9 range. This is the year we start sending hard and really learning to push ourselves into harder grades and crushing. We hope to see J&M sending some 5.7 at 38, and maybe some 5.8 at Vantage this year.

 

Team Update: March 2018

Team Fundraiser 

During the Month of March, guests holding a limited edition coupon from Team Edgeworks will receive 30% off the normal Clip & Climb rate. Edgeworks Climbing will donate $10 for every coupon redeemed to Team Edgeworks. As a bonus, on March 17, from 1:00p – 4:00p Team Members will be available for any member or day pass holder who would like a belay on top-rope, or beta on their current project.

For Team Members, if you’d like to inspire and encourage people in our community on March 17, ask one of your coaches to sign you up. Make sure to wear your Team shirt on that day so that you are easily identifiable as an “expert”.

Sport and Speed Season 2018

The local Sport and Speed season is almost here! We have begun training in preparation for longer routes, comp belays, and sport leading. Competitors are shifting focus to fitness, endurance training, learning to lead climb and belay, or refreshing their abilities, and getting used to longer routes with a looser belay similar to the belay at comps.

The dates that coaches will be available at local competitions are:

– April 7: Vertical World, Redmond, WA
– April 21: Island Rock Gym, Bainbridge Island, WA
– April 28: ClubSport, Tigard, OR

Be on the lookout for more season information coming in your email inbox. Included in the email are more dates, van info, and links to event invitations.

Honoring the Game

“Honoring the Game” is a Positive Coaching Alliance principle about sportsmanship encouraging leaders, coaches, parents and athletes to respect all aspects of their sport. The ROOTS of Honoring the Game is an acronym which stands for better respecting: Rules, Opponents, Officials, Teammates and Self.

Rules
The rules of a sport have been developed and modified for a reason. Rules keep the game fair, and they also keep athletes safe. Don’t try to work against the rules or bend them; respect the role they play in your sport.

Opponents
As you want respect, give respect to your opponents. As Jim Thompson suggests in his book, “fierce and friendly” opponents are what we should strive to be and have in competition.

Officials
Officials are doing the best they can to enforce the rules and maintain a safe environment for play. They are people too, doing the best they can, and there is never an excuse for disrespecting officials.

Teammates
Make your teammates proud by doing the best you can (on and off the field) and by supporting them in all their efforts.

Self
Finally, and most importantly, you have to respect yourself in order to uphold an honorable approach to sports. Set high standards and live up to them.

Upcoming Events

Team Fundraiser
March 1 – 31

Team Belay and Beta Day
March 17, 1:00p – 4:00p
Edgeworks Climbing

Social Media

Check the lobby bulletin board, Facebook, Instagram, and the Team Blog at edgeworksclimbing.com for Team Edgeworks news and information.

Next PCA Meeting

Mar. 19, 6:30p in the upstairs lounge.

Contact Info.

Lisa Ferazza, Team Manager
Phone: 253-564-4899
E-Mail: lisa@edgeworksclimbing.com

Member Spotlight: Feb 2018

Benjamin Brown & Kalista Shult

Edgeworks members since 2016 & 2017

How did you start climbing?

Ben: I started with The Mountaineers’ Basic Alpine Climbing course. That course included some rock skills, but I really fell in love with rock climbing after I took their Sport Climbing course.

Kalista: A friend invited me to go climbing with him at Exit 38 back in 2013. I did some bouldering after that but didn’t climb on a regular basis until I started climbing with Ben last year.

Why do you climb at Edgeworks?

Ben: It’s close to home, has fun, varied routes, and I almost always see someone I know there. Stoked for the expansion!

Kalista: Everything that Ben said! I really like the environment at Edgeworks, and I think we are incredibly lucky to have it so close to our home.

Where is your favorite place to climb outside?

Ben: Liberty Bell has been my favorite climb so far, and Exit 38 is probably my go-to because there’s decent variety and I can get there after work. Really looking forward to checking out Index this summer.

Kalista: I’ve only climbed outside at Exit 38, Vantage, and in Leavenworth. Of those, I’ve had the most fun at Vantage, but I am excited to do more outdoor climbing!

What do you do when you’re not climbing?

Ben: I’m an instructional coach in a local school district, where I help teachers use effectively the technology that the district is bringing in.

Kalista: I am a full-time nanny, and I’ve also been involved with Jet City Improv for the last 9 years and occasionally house manage that theater.

What are some interesting facts that you’d like to share with the Edgeworks community?

Kalista: I had to take a break from climbing after accidentally stabbing my hand and severing a nerve while getting an avocado pit out. I am now extremely careful when removing avocado pits.

What’s your go-to route grade?

Ben: 5.11ish top rope, 5.10ish lead, 5.fun trad!

Kalista: 5.8. I am working on harder stuff all the time, but that’s definitely my go-to.

 

Team Update: February 2018

 

USA Climbing: Bouldering Youth Nationals

The 2018 USA Climbing: Bouldering Youth National Championship will take place at Salt Palace Convention Center in the heart of downtown Salt Lake City. Three of Team Edgeworks’ competitors will be competing on the national stage along with some of the best climbers in the country. The event schedule and running orders can be found on usaclimbing.org. The competition will also be streaming live on the website.

Nervous? Try Courageousness, Compassion And Competitiveness

Courage is embracing being uncomfortable. It is alright to accept that you have fear. Compassion is trusting yourself. You need to trust that your process and you as a person can overcome any obstacles in your way. Lastly, to deal with being nervous, be competitive. Get excited for whatever is about to happen. Get excited about being able to go out on a big stage and perform your best. All you can control is your effort and focus. Do not get worried about the results because they are out of your control. Get excited about the opportunity to compete.

Upcoming Events

National Championship
February 9-11 @ The Salt Palace, Salt Lake City, UT

Team Gear Orders
Order deadline: February 12

Lock-in
February 23, 9:00p – February 24, 8:00a

Social Media

Check the lobby bulletin board, Facebook, Instagram, and the Team Blog at edgeworksclimbing.com for Team Edgeworks news and information.

Next PCA Meeting

Feb. 19, 6:30p in the upstairs lounge.

 

Dirtbag Movie

Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey

Saturday, February 3 2018 – 7pm
Schneebeck Concert Hall | University of Puget Sound

Show times and seating:
Doors open at 6:15 pm  |  Show starts at 7:00 pm  |  General admission seating – first come basis

Tickets: $15 (or $20 at the door)

BUY NOW

Fred Beckey was the original American “Dirtbag” climber whose name has evoked mystery, adulation and vitriol since the 1940s. Beckey’s stubborn, singular quest to conquer peaks meant a solitary life on the road, where he left a long trail of scorned climbing partners and lost lovers in his wake.

The groundbreaking life story of this rebel athlete, who inspired generations of climbers to head for the mountains with his monumental first ascents and eloquent books, is told for the first time in this exclusive documentary film.

Learn more at: dirtbagmovie.com

Screening Sponsors: The Mountaineers, Puget Sound Outdoors, Edgeworks Climbing