Footwork: Edging and Smearing

by: Matt Coleman

Crushing begins with footwork and it’s important to consider how you use all that wonderful rubber on your climbing shoes.

There are two fundamental techniques: edging and smearing.

Most climbers really only edge in some form or another and this is useful on footholds that have some sort of positive edge for the shoe to grip. When edging, it’s important to think about really flexing your toes and pressing them into the hold while making sure your heel stays level with, or higher than your ankle. This will allow you to fully use the shoes performance.

Smearing on the other hand is a different and often neglected technique. When footholds get tinier and more rounded, it’s generally more useful to focus on keeping your heel down below your ankle and get as much rubber on the hold as you can. Flex your toes into the hold and step onto the foothold with confidence and a little force. Be aware that if you lose focus and let the heel lift, or you don’t commit to stepping into the hold, you will usually skate off the foothold. But soon, with a little practice, you’ll find that even the smallest features of the wall will be usable!

Once you master these two basic foot techniques, progress into playing with edging using the inside and outside edges of the shoe. Many times climbers use only the tip of the shoe and this limits your ability to twist your hips in to the wall at times.

Try it and crush on!

Meet the Coaches!

May 25 – 29, 2015  |  Sign up to receive FREE Fitness Assessments!

Join us the week of May 25 – 29 and meet the coaches of our NEW Edge Fitness Coaching program!

Sign up in advance for FREE fitness consults/mini assessments and find out why Edge Coaching is right for you. This offer is available for ONE WEEK ONLY! Don’t miss out. Just click the links below or ask at the front desk to schedule your appointment.

About the Coaches:
Coach Miles brings a deep passion for health and fitness. His personal mission is to share his same passion with others. He holds the gold standard of credibility in the Industry. He has worked with a wide a variety of clientele ranging from youth to working class to high level athletes. He holds clients accountable, motivated, and determined. He can relate to people’s struggles and hardships of becoming a healthier individual. He will guide you to reach and surpass your fitness and wellness goals with his expertise. He specializes in improving strength, cardiovascular, sport-specific, functional movement, weight reduction and overall posture, while staying free from injury and taking any pre-existing injuries into consideration. He believes in individualized dynamic program design that’s specific to each client workouts that are fun, challenging, and rewarding. Miles is fairly new to rock climbing and loves the challenge and the metal toughness it brings. He enjoys the outdoors and hopes to build a strong relationship of with the Edgeworks community.  (NSCA CSCS*)

Sign up for a Free Fitness Assessment with Miles!

For Klarissa a passion for health and fitness was always present, although it was with crutches under her armpits and a boot on her left foot, that she discovered this passion would become her career. As a stubborn injury put a hold on her collegiate athletic career, Klarissa was offered an internship with a sports performance center, where she learned the art of training for performance without compromising the body’s durability. The knowledge she gained inspired her to become a personal trainer helping others maximize their potential in sport, activity and quality of life. In 2014 she became a certified personal trainer through the National Academy of Sports Medicine (NASM) as well works as an assistant coach with Pacific Lutheran Universities Track & Field team. She has extensive experience with athletes of all levels, specifically in speed, agility and power training.

Sign up for a Free Fitness Assessment with Klarissa!

Marissa graduated from Pacific Lutheran University in 2010 with a degree in Psychology and Biology. Her love for sports and the outdoors has led her to a career as the Edgeworks Assistant Manager and an Edge Fitness Coach. Marissa is an ACE Certified Personal Trainer, with three years training experience. Marissa approaches fitness programming with a holistic perspective examining lifestyle, nutrition, strength and conditioning. Marissa can prepare you for your sport, outdoor pursuits, or just get you in shape for life. When not at Edgeworks, Marissa spends most of her time coaching or playing Ultimate Frisbee. She also enjoys hiking, climbing, backpacking, running, and eating good food.

Sign up for a Free Fitness Assessment with Marissa!

Peter Broback and Jessica Davidson

Members since 2012 and 2014

How did you start climbing?
Peter: I started climbing with my dad. We do a lot of of ski mountaineering and I got interested in all types of climbing from that.

Jessica: I started climbing about a year ago when I came back from teaching in Japan. Peter brought me to Edgeworks and I’ve pretty much been coming nonstop since then. I like physical challenges and the thoughtfulness of climbing.

Why do you climb at Edgeworks?
Edgeworks is the superior climbing gym in Tacoma, obviously! The staff are great and the routes are constantly changing and usually very fun, challenging, and interesting. It’s a good place to train for the outdoors.

Where is your favorite place to climb outside?
We both agree that Leavenworth has so far been our favorite place to climb, although Peter says he wants to spend more time at Index.

What do you do when you’re not climbing?
Jessica: When I’m not climbing, I’m usually slinging delicious vegan food in the Proctor District, or else I’ve got
my nose shoved deep into a book. Or I’m singing to my plants and chasing our kitten around.

Peter: Thinking about climbing.

What are some interesting facts that you’d like to share with the Edgeworks community?
Jessica: This is nerdy and entirely unrelated to anything anyone else cares about, but my interesting fact is that the Japanese language is entirely unrelated, linguistically speaking, to any other language. While it’s true that one of its three written systems is based on the use of Chinese characters, the spoken language, its grammar, is in its own family, although some linguists believe it to possibly be related to Korean or Turkish. (Totally random, but I’m a bit of a language nerd, speak some Japanese, and have visited Japan 5 times.)

Peter: The average income of a person in 1993 buying a new Range Rover was $400,000. the average price of a 1993 Range Rover today is $700.

Evolution Aero Bicolor Dry 60M

by Andrew Powell

This is a great new rope by Sterling! In four days I pulled it up 42 pitches of sandstone in the Red Rocks Conservation Area, Nevada. It is super lightweight and supple at 9.2mm and 56g/m. It was light enough that on rope stretching pitches, I did not feel like it was dragging me down.

I used it in combination with a heavier 9.8mm rope to simultaneously belay multiple followers. This new Sterling rope handled much nicer and was easier to pull through a belay device than the thicker rope.

During single pitch climbing, it was also noticeably easier to belay with. The sheath is smooth and durable, showing limited signs of wear after fairly heavy use on the highly textured sandstone.

While taking lead falls, this rope was comparable to most other dynamic ropes that I have used.

If you have not switched to a Bi-color rope yet, do it! The convenience of finding the middle point is well worth the extra cost. The only downside to this rope is shared by any small diameter line, they seem to get stuck in cracks more frequently than bulkier ropes.

In summation, this rope is great and Sterling consistently puts out great rope products.

Evolution Aero Bicolor Dry 60M

25% OFF the March 27th and April 19th sessions of the Beginning Climbers Program
Sign Up TODAY!

Regular price: $199 | Discount Price: $149.25 | SAVE: $$49.75!
PROMO Code: CLIMBERS25

Beginning Climbers is a 10-week introduction program for youth climbers with little or no climbing experience who want to learn basic climbing technique and safety skills. The coaches at this level are focused on having fun while building strong, fit, and motivated climbers! Upon graduation, climbers will be encouraged to advance to our Junior or Club Climber’s programs.

Benefits:
– Climb regularly with other kids.
– Includes climbing games and activities.
– Learn basic climbing skills.
– High instructor to climber ratios.
– Membership and gear rental included!

Details:
Program Start Dates:
– Friday, March 27;  1 day/week for 10-weeks
– Sunday, April 19;  1 day/week for 10-weeks
Time: 4:30pm – 5:30pm
Cost: 10-Week Session: PREPAID: $199/session  ONLY: $149.25/session (with promo code)
Age: 6 to 14
Prerequisites: No experience necessary!

REGISTER ONLINE!

Fine Print:
Promo Code: CLIMBERS25 is valid for the Beginning Climbers program sessions beginning March 27, 2015 and April 19, 2015 ONLY; cannot be combined with other offers.

Join Edgeworks for a day of Climbing for Courage!

The 6th Annual CLIMBATHON to benefit First Descents is happening Saturday, April 18th, 2015 from 12:00pm – 4:00pm.

First Descents provides life-changing outdoor adventures for young adults impacted by cancer.

Registration is only $30 and you’ll receive a Buff, climbing for the duration of the event (including gear) and the chance to win some awesome prizes!

We hope to see you on April 18th to Climb for Courage!

Register online: support.firstdescents.org/fundraise

Lisa Wellman

Member since 2012

She responded with surprise upon being notified that she’d been selected as this month’s Member Spotlight but if you keep reading we’re pretty sure you’ll understand why. (Because being part of the Edgeworks community is about more than sending the hardest routes.) Learn a little more about Lisa…

How did you start climbing?
Lisa: A wonderful friend (BJ Stockton) introduced me to climbing; though I could only learn from him for about a year before he moved out of state. Luckily the community here continues to fill in the gaps.

Why do you climb at Edgeworks?
Lisa: I won’t mention the proximity to my home (but that’s a plus) because it’s really that Edgeworks offers that Cheers atmosphere. Everyone is friendly and helpful (staff & members alike). The encouragement that goes along with the welcoming faces is priceless.

Where is your favorite place to climb outside?
Lisa: I’m still such a rookie with this since all of my outdoor experience is via leeching off of experienced climbers and awesome Edgeworks trips. So far the highlights are Red Rocks in Vegas and Smith Rock.

What do you do when you’re not climbing?
Lisa: Working as a physical therapist and being a mom to 2 boys (ages 3 & 5) keeps me beyond busy. I’ve also become a bit obsessed with gardening in the last year. And no, I don’t mind if you have questions about your injury, please ask, I LOVE helping when I can!

What are some interesting facts that you’d like to share with the Edgeworks community?
Lisa: The Jersey Shore cast is NOT from NJ, the NY Giants play and practice in NJ and there isn’t a better bagel in the  world then one from a small town in NJ…..guess where I’m from?! Happily transplanted about 13 years ago for graduate school, I am proud to call WA home.
On a different note, being a parent is the hardest yet most amazing job in the world. High five to all you parents out there! If you’re not a parent, hug someone who is, we can always use some TLC no matter what stage of parenting we’re in.