Edgeworks Climbing Newsletter
May 2008
In this issue...

Peshastin Pinnacles Revival
  Eric on Windward Direct - 5.8  
Eric on Windward Direct - 5.8
A bolt protected crack climb that also takes cams from one half inch to 3 inches. If you can toe jam and friction climb, you will love this very safe climb. I give it 4 stars. Don't bring your aggressive Smith rock shoes.
By Edgeworks Member - Mark Webster

From a recent trip report on the Edgeworks Climbing Message Board: Edgeworks climbers Mark, Christine, Eric and Austin.

The Peshastin Pinnacles have a bad reputation, but I'm here to tell you not to believe it. There is some awesome climbing there, both sport and trad. Yes the rock is sandstone, and it can be crumbly in places but those places are easily avoided. The Pinnacles are an awesome place to learn friction climbing. If you have ever done the 5.9 Bliss route at exit 38 at Gun Show wall, the Pinnacles is just like that: very smooth, leaning over friction based slab climbing.

There are many routes under 5.9, enough for a couple full weekends of climbing, which is what I've been doing the last couple weekends...working on my friction technique. Friction climbing is completely different from steep face climbing, or crack climbing. Having your toes jammed into a shoe 2 sizes too small will not help. You need your shoe to be able to smear on the ball of your feet.

Imagine standing on a very smooth leaning over slab of rock, there are absolutely no foot or handholds, all you have is the friction under the ball of your foot, and you are 5 feet (or more) above the last bolt. That's the Pinnacles. It's true that many of the routes have long run outs...but guess what, so does the Yosemite Apron, so does the Squamish Apron and many other places. Many of Victors routes up the Icicle have similar run outs.

The Pinnacles has run outs on 5.4 climbs, which are so easy that you won't fall, but you will begin to get comfortable with climbing high above a bolt while keeping your cool.

  Christine on Windward - 5.6  
Christine on Windward - 5.6
It tops out on a knife edge ridge that drops off 70 feet on the left, and 100 feet on the right. If you come off, you will take a very scary king swing...but no one ever has because it's only 5.6 onto the ridge, and the ridge is 4th class horse riding.
There are also routes at the Pinnacles that are so closely bolted it's almost ridiculous (Potholes 5.7, West Face Grand central tower 5.8). Many of these bolted routes will also take cams to reduce the run outs (Windward Direct 5.8, Potholes 5.7, Martian Direct 5.7, Sunset Slab 5.4 to 5.9). All the bolts have been upgraded to modern 3/8 inch or larger.

There are some very cool trad routes that take bomber pro and are very moderate (Porpoise 5.6, Tunnel Route 5.6, Catacombs 5.7, Vertigo 5.8). In short, don't skip the Pinnacles. Because of their undeserved reputation amongst the young sport crowd, they are usually deserted. I saw 2 other climbers on a recent weekend, and I heard Vantage was crowded. No waits, excellent climbing, what's not to like?

These pictures (and more!) from a recent trip with Christine, Austin and Eric. Christine has a lot of experience with friction climbing back east and led a sweet climb called Gray Whale (5.8 old school)...glad we had a stick clip! It only had 2 bolts in 60 feet, but believe it or not, it's quite safe with a stick clip. The bolts are where you need them, but you do need to warm up your friction skills on easy stuff before jumping on certain routes. You can also easily top rope many of the harder climbs (Austian Slab, Potholes Direct, West Face Grand Central).

~Thanks Mark for the great story and pics on Peshastin Pinnacles!

For more pictures and the complete story (click here)!


FREE Slackline Clinic and Demo  
  Slacklining - A Balance Sport
Come Slackline With Edgeworks!
  Time: Friday, May 30th, 8-10pm
  Join us for a fun evening of Slacklining!
Never done it before? Our staff will teach you how to keep your balance on our slackline (tightrope of webbing) set up in the gym for the evening. It's fun to watch, and even more fun to do as you build balance in your body!
  * The climbers leisure sport
* Builds balance and focus
* Slacklines can be set up most anywhere
* A great way to hang out and have fun!
  Come Slackline with Edgeworks!  
  FREE Slackline Clinic  

  Climbing Team Member Max Beers  
Climbing Team Member Max Beers
Climbing Team Member Max Beers
  Edgeworks Climbing Team Update
  Props to the team for a solid Sport Climbing Season! The local competitions are done for the year - leaving our kids with Regional, Divisional, and National Championships over the summer.
  Over this season, we've had kids finish Top 5 at every comp. A couple of climbers are even currently Top 10 in their category at a National Level.
  We also have a few new team members on the Edgeworks Roster - welcome Brittany Bakken and Andrew Ira to the Edgeworks Family!  
  Competition Results: April 5th, Edgeworks, WA
2nd - Paul Wadsworth - Male Youth D
2nd - Larkin Flodin - Male Youth B
3rd - Cody Rogers - Male Youth A
4th - Billy Beggs - Male Youth D
4th - Chloe Blazey - Female Youth D
6th - April Sanders - Female Youth A
7th - Kellie Peterson - Female Youth C
8th - Clayton LaFaive - Male Youth B
9th - Lizzy Gipson - Female Youth D
10th - Max Beers - Male Youth B
11th - Sam Mullen - Male Youth B
13th - Gabe Mullen - Male Youth B
16th - Soren Bliss-Miller - Male Youth B
  Competition Results: April 19th, Clubsport, OR
2nd - Larkin Flodin - Male Youth B
4th - Chloe Blazey - Female Youth D
4th - Cody Rogers - Male Youth A
5th - Billy Beggs - Male Youth D
8th - April Sanders - Female Youth A
14th - Sam Mullen - Male Youth B
17th - Gabe Mullen - Male Youth B
  Competition Results: May 3rd, Stoneworks, OR
3rd - Paul Wadsworth - Male Youth D
3rd - Cody Rogers - Male Youth A
4th - Larkin Flodin - Male Youth B
5th - Max Beers - Male Youth B
5th - April Sanders - Female Youth A
10th - Sam Mullen - Male Youth B

2008 Summer Camps!  

Registration of our 2008 Youth Summer Camps has begun!
Edgeworks Climbing
is proud to offer week long summer camps and two day Family Camps for beginner, intermediate and advanced climbers of all ages! Whether you're looking for a camp to introduce your children to the sport of rock climbing or you're looking for a fun outing for the whole family, Edgeworks' summer camps are a fun and safe way to enjoy the sport of rock climbing this summer!

Sign Me Up!
Indoor Only * Ages 6-10
Indoor/Outdoor * Ages 9-17
Indoor/Outdoor * Ages 9-17
Indoor/Outdoor/Camping * Ages 10-17
Indoor Only * Ages 3-6, 6-9, and 9-17

For more information and registration please call 253-564-4899.

  Edgeworks Summer Camps  

  Edgeworks Climbing School  
  Edgeworks Climbing School

Edgeworks Climbing School offers professional instruction for all levels of climbing. Whether you are just starting out and want to learn the basics, or you've been climbing for years and you want to learn technical outdoor rock skills, Edgeworks Climbing School will help take you to the next level.

With each series of classes the curriculums are designed to progress you through each level of climbing quickly.

Learn the essential skills
Advanced technical skills
Master outdoor skills
Learn crevasse rescue
Train to climb hard!
Cater your instruction to you
Edgeworks members receive a 15% discount on all classes!
Junior Climbing Program 3-6  

An ongoing, quality climbing experience for climbers ages 3-6 years old. The Junior Climbing Program 3-6 offers an active curriculum taught by our professional, experienced staff in a safe indoor setting with high instructor to climber ratios. Our Junior Climbing Program builds a foundation for strong, fit, motivated, goal oriented kids and the climbing is just plain fun!

* Climb regularly with other kids
* Daily curriculum includes climbing games and activities
* Learn basic climbing skills
* High instructor to climber ratios
* Safe, fun and fit activities taught by professional instructors

* Duration: 2 Sessions per Week
* Dates: Tue/Thu 3:00pm - 4:00pm
* Prerequisites: Ages 3-6 years
No Experience Necessary
* Cost: $79/month
  Junior Climbing Program 3-6  

  Team Building Events at Edgeworks  
  Team Building Events at Edgeworks
  Edgeworks Climbing hosts team building events for companies and groups that build confidence, trust and respect among peers. We use classic team building exercises combined with climbing specific activities to produce a truly memorable event. Our programs are a fun and exciting way to build a group that pulls together to get those tough projects completed.
  Events Details:
* Available 7 days a week
2-Hour, Half Day and Full Day Day Events
* Proven confidence and trust building activities
* Problem Solving Games/Activities, Climbing and Rappelling
* All Events Hosted by our Senior Level Instructors

  *For more information and pricing (click here) for details.  

High School Night!
Edgeworks supports the local youth through monthly High School Nights! Get in at a REDUCED RATE, rentals are FREE and get a FREE 101: Knots and Belaying class.
Event Details:
* Friday, 7:00-9:00pm (check below for your High School date)
* $10 Day Pass
* Student Gear Rentals - FREE!!
* 101: Knots and Belaying class - FREE!!
* Must present valid Student ID
* Liability Waiver must signed by parent

* Emerald Ridge High School - 1st Friday each month
* Wilson High School - 2nd Friday each month

* Mount Tahoma High School - 3rd Friday each month
Edgeworks is seeking School Reps; if you don't see your high school listed, contact Margaret Chang at Edgeworks to set up a monthly high school night for your school!
  High School Night!  

  Adult Training Team  
Adult Training Team

Whether you want to do your first pull-up or send your first 5.12, if you have a goal, the Adult Training Team is for you! Taught by our professional coaching staff, this training group meets twice a week for a 2 hour session designed to amp up your climbing. Course focuses on fundamental climbing skills and targeted training to eliminate your climbing 'weaknesses'.

* Professional coaching
* Set yourself up for success
* Meet new climbing partners
* Eliminate your climbing weaknesses
* Become stronger and more fit
* Climb harder!

* Duration: Meets twice a week, 2 hour sessions each
* Prerequisites: 101: Knots & Belaying (or equivalent)
* Cost: $95/month
* Dates/Times: Tuesday/Thursday, 7:00pm - 9:00pm
Edgeworks members receive a 15% discount on all classes!
Call 253-564-4899 to register today!

New Routes
Have we ever been busy! We have set over 107 new routes since April 1st! In particular, our boulder routes have been steller!
Come try them out.
Here's a sample of some of the best routes in the gym:
Top Rope 5: 5.7 Chutes and Ladders
Big holds up the face then crux left.
Top Rope 18: 5.10- Who Has Returned From The Dead?
Very cool route across the whole wall.
Top Rope 9: 5.11- Flustration
Outstanding flow with lot's of body tension.
Top Rope 39: 5.12- No One's Going To Take Me Alive
Bizarre moves out of the cave.
Lead I: 5.9 Spot the Imposter
Good flow if you use good footwork.
Lead G: 5.10+ Rooster in a Hen House
Juggy moves under the overhang, then press!
Boulder B1: V1 Top-Out Test
New top-out test route.
Boulder B2: V3 Sendfest
No feet!? Or is there?
Boulder B2: V6 What If I...
Toe and heal hooking galore!
Boulder B5: V8 Urban Ape
  Intense body tension with really hard top-out.
  New Routes!  

This Month at Edgeworks!
Spring has sprung. School will be out soon so it’s time to plan for summer. Adults, polish your technical skills with one of our classes from our new Climbing School. Parents, don’t know what to do with the kids this summer? Check out our Summer Camps.
For our full schedule of this months calendar (click here)!
303: Self Rescue
What will you do if you’re partner is injured while you’re climbing? This class will address the technical skills needed to: escape the belay, set raising and lowering systems, improvise rappels, and ascend a rope.
For information and pricing (click here).
Summer Camp for Kids!
One week camps from July 14th through August 29th. Summer Camps are a great introduction to climbing indoors and out. There’s even an overnight camp. Sign up now! Check out our Summer Camps, too
For information and pricing (click here).

FREE Slackline Clinic!!! - 8-10pm, Friday, May 30th
Staff members will be available to offer advice to beginners and advanced slackliners. The slackline will stay up until 10pm so you can practice away the wobbly leg.

Women's Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May 2nd
Ladies - Come on in and climb, after 5pm at a discounted rate. Meet lots of new friends and climb hard with old friends. $9 Day Pass. First Friday of each month.
College Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May 9th
Seeking a higher education? Let off some steam and join other students for an evening of climbing at a discounted rate. Day passes are $9 with a valid Washington State College ID (24 years and younger only). Second Friday of each month.
Family Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May 16th
Bring the whole family and meet other climbing families! First adult family member pays full price ($15 day pass), additional family members pay $5. Third Friday of each month.
Military Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May 23rd
Edgeworks salutes our active military with a night of climbing just for you! Day passes are $9 with a valid Military ID. Fourth Friday of each month.

Edgeworks Climbing - 6102 N 9th Street #200, Tacoma, WA 98406
www.edgeworksclimbing.com - 253-564-4899

This email has been sent to you from climb@edgeworksclimbing.com

You are receiving this email because you or a family member are a customer of Edgeworks Climbing
or have subscribed to our newsletter at edgeworksclimbing.com
To unsubscribe from this newsletter, click here.