Edgeworks Climbing Newsletter
February 2008
In this issue...
Edgeworks Climbers in Thailand - NEW!!
Edgeworks Team Going to Nationals! - NEW!!
Junior Climbing Program 3-6 year olds! - NEW!!
Edgeworks Military Night - NEW!!
CLIMB BETTER! - Adult Training Team

Edgeworks Climbers in Thailand
  Lisa Ferazza Climbing in Thailand  
By Tod Bloxham
Climbing in Thailand is like Superman climbing at Disnyland; the rock is shaped like something out of a climber's fantasy, the routes have big moves to big holds and everyone is climbing like they are invincible. It really is something of a climber's dream.

This winter Edgeworks climbers have been all over searching for places to climb while the Northwest endures a long cold winter. While some Edgeworks climbers found bliss in the cool boulders of Bishop California, others ventured further south to the warm granite of Joshua Tree. In search of an endless summer of climbing, a small crew of 6 climbers went even further around the globe and found the warm beaches and steep limestone of Southern Thailand, and they found paradise.

For our crew of 6 (Justin Johnson, Joe and Lisa Ferazza, John McGoldrick and Tod and Michelle Bloxham), traveling to Thailand for climbing of course was not like our average climbing trip; not only were we traveling for 18+ hours straight, crossing the International Date Line, and traveling through Japan and Singapore, but when we finally landed in Bangkok we then had to begin our domestic journey to Southern Thailand in search of the warm waters, beaches and the climbing that we started our trip for in the first place.

Once our last flight landed in Southern Thailand (Krabi), we still were not done; we then braved a 40 minute taxi ride (which is an adventure in its own!) to take us to the tourist town Ao Nang where we were dropped off on the beach. From Ao Nang we waded out into the water and climbed aboard a longtail boat that motored us through the maze of steep cliffs and sea-stacks to the tropical beaches of Tonsai and Railay. Both of these beaches are accessible by boat only.

  Tod Bloxham Climbing in Thailand  

By the time we reached Tonsai our minds were now completely blown away, not just from the traveling, but from the realization of where we were and how incredible a place it is. To put it mildly, it is a climbers paradise; over 75% of the people at Tonsai are there to climb and climb they do!

The Rock:
The rock in Southern Thailand is limestone and is part of the world's largest coral reef, stretching from China down to Papua New Guinea. Limestone is an organic rock in that it forms itself in ways you would not think is possible. The limestone in Thailand is very porous and as water soaks into it, it dissolves the rock (often times making odd shaped pockets and caves). When the water (with it's dissolved limestone) finally finds a place to drip from on the overhanging walls, the water evaporates leaving the limestone to reform in long odd shaped stalactites and ribs (aka tufa). The improbable shapes of the stalactites and tufa make for some amazing shapes of rock to climb. It really looks like someone from Disneyland went crazy with the rock.

The Climbing:
With over 700 routes to choose from we wasted no time finding incredible climbs. Most of the climbs are a short walk from your bungalow to the beach where belaying right off the beach is the norm. The climbs are at all grades with many super classics visible from most anywhere on the main beach. Everything is bolted and range from short single pitch routes great for top-roping, to long multipitch routes that over look the blue warm waters of Railay Bay.

  Lisa and Tod Deep Water Soloing in Thailand  

One of our favorite climbs of the trip was a 4+ pitch climb called Humanality that started at the bar located on the beach, climb through a cave which exited 50' above the bar overlooking the roof, climbed out of the cave up and through a series of stalactites and then up ribs of tufa. The highlight of the climb is where you realize that you will have to lean out away from the wall and catch the bottom tip of a 60' stalactite (your body is now stemming with both hands on the stalactite and both feet on the main wall); you then climb stalactite for 15' then lean out again and fall back to the main wall. The feeling of letting go of the wall to catch a massive free hanging stalactite behind you is completely unreal! After all is climbed you then have four rappels down to the ground with the last one landing you right in the bar!

Deep Water Soloing:
One of our side trips was to go Deep Water Soloing; essentially climbing unroped above deep water as high as you feel comfortable or have the ability to and then jumping or falling into the water. Southern Thailand is famous for Deep Water Soloing and it's not hard to find a guide and a boat to take you out to a few sea stacks, latch onto the wall from the boat and then begin climbing up the crazy limestone formations. Other than the pure fear of falling off the wall into water, the climbing is exhilarating, the many roofs and stalactites make for endless routes. At one point John climbed up two different stalactites and ended up 70'-80' off the water; with very little encouraging he made the jump into the water look easy. It was scary to just watch!

Edgeworks Friends:
Our trip to Thailand was about as memorable as you can make it; we enjoyed the climbing, the friendly Thai people, the warm beaches and most of all we enjoyed the company and strong friendships of each other. What's amazing is that not very long ago none of us knew each other and in a short time we have traveled around the world as friends in search of the climber's paradise!


  Edgeworks Team Going to Nationals!

Congratulations to the Edgeworks Climbing Team and Billy Beggs and Larkin Flodin for climbing hard and making the cut at the Divisional Competition last month, they are going to Nationals!

  These kids have progressed very far in only a couple of seasons and they are only going to get better. Congratulations; we expect to see both of you tearing the holds off the wall at the Finals in Colorado. As a whole, the entire Edgeworks Climbing Team has earned a lot of respect for their growth as climbers. While the entire team has improved immensely in terms of both climbing technique and strength, we are most blown away by their attitudes and maturity. Not only do they show full dedication at every practice, pushing themselves to their limits when asked, but they are looked up to by others for their respect of their friends and other people around them.
  Congratulations and rip the holds off in Boulder at Nationals!  
Advanced Movement & Technique 201
Have you hit that plateau and you don't see anymore improvement? Now is the time to focus on effective movement and to develop skills that will take you to a higher standard of climbing. If you're ready for the next level, this course will take you there
* Radically improve your footwork
* Learn how to read routes
* Plan proper sequencing
* Understand when to move and when to rest
* Learn to use bouldering to improve your climbing
* Break through your plateau and advance to the next grade

* Duration: 2 Days
* Prerequisites: Knots & Belaying 101 (or equivalent)
Solid 5.9 or V1 Climbing Ability
* Cost: $65
* Dates/Times: 3rd & 4th Wednesday Each Month
7:00pm - 8:30pm
Edgeworks members receive a 15% discount on all classes!
Next Class Begins February 20th!
Call 253-564-4899 to register today!

  Junior Climbing Program 3-6

An ongoing, quality climbing experience for climbers ages 3-6 years old. The Junior Climbing Program 3-6 offers an active curriculum taught by our professional, experienced staff in a safe indoor setting with high instructor to climber ratios. Our Junior Climbing Program builds a foundation for strong, fit, motivated, goal oriented kids and the climbing is just plain fun!

* Climb regularly with other kids
* Daily curriculum includes climbing games and activities
* Learn basic climbing skills
* High instructor to climber ratios
* Safe, fun and fit activities taught by professional instructors

* Duration: 2 Sessions per Week
* Dates: Tue/Thu 3:00pm - 4:00pm
* Prerequisites: Ages 3-6 years
No Experience Necessary
* Cost: $79/month

Edgeworks Military Night

Edgeworks salutes our military with a night of climbing just for you! Bring yourself, bring your crew, bring your whole squadron! Show your military ID and get your Day Pass at a discounted rate!

* Climb at a discounted rate!
* Do something fun with your friends
* Meet new and active friends
* Get a great workout
* Learn to climb hard!
* Dates: Every 4th Friday of the month
* Times: 5:00pm - 10:00pm
* Cost: $9 Day Pass (Regularly $15)
  Adult Training Team  

  Adult Training Team  
Adult Training Team

Whether you want to do your first pull-up or send your first 5.12, if you have a goal, the Adult Training Team is for you! Taught by our professional coaching staff, this training group meets twice a week for a 2 hour session designed to amp up your climbing. Course focuses on fundamental climbing skills and targeted training to eliminate your climbing 'weaknesses'.

* Professional coaching
* Set yourself up for success
* Meet new climbing partners
* Eliminate your climbing weaknesses
* Become stronger and more fit
* Climb harder!

* Duration: Meets twice a week, 2 hour sessions each
* Prerequisites: Knots & Belaying 101 (or equivalent)
* Cost: $95/month
* Dates/Times: Tuesday/Thursday, 7:00pm - 9:00pm
Edgeworks members receive a 15% discount on all classes!
Call 253-564-4899 to register today!

New Routes
Edgeworks has set over 100 new routes since January 1st; we've been very busy setting new routes! Happy climbing!
Here's a sample of some of the best routes in the gym:
Top Rope 27: 5.8 Kobra Kai Punks
Big swing on top rope and it's leadable!
Top Rope 38: 5.9 Campus Man
Big jugs out of the arch. Technique or campus?
Top Rope 22: 5.10 Scourge
Voted best 5.10 in the gym.
Top Rope 39: 5.11 Avoco
Start with a hug, finish with trust. =)
Top Rope 15: 5.13- Rockination
Just try and start it!
Lead C: 5.8 Remote Server
Big moves to big holds!
Lead D: 5.11- Route Setting is Making Me Sterile
Grab the tooth and climb through the mouth.
Lead G: 5.12 Burl Sauce
Lot's of balancy footwork on small chips.
Boulder B1: V0+ Tommy Lee Jones In A Chicken Suit
From the arch climb out and back over.
Boulder B1: V1 The Roof Is On Fire
Voted best V1 in the gym!
Boulder B3: V3 Mind-Bottling
  Big Moves, Big Features, Fun Top-Out!
Boulder B3: V6 A Tribe Called Conquest
  Start with power crimps end with a feature.
Boulder B1: V10 The Perfect Pain
  The name says it all.
  New Routes!  

This Month at Edgeworks!
In the dead of Winter come hide out in the warm and cozy confines of Edgeworks Climbing Gym. Get started on your off-season training! Check out our Adult Training Team.
For our full schedule of this months calendar (click here)!
  Edgeworks Feedback
We want to hear from you. Do you have a program idea? Or how about a change that you would like us to make to our current programs? Stop by our bulletin board in the hallway and leave us a note on the back of a route comment card.
Women's Night - 5-10pm, Friday, February 1st
Ladies - Come on in and climb, after 5pm at a discounted rate. Meet lots of new friends and climb hard with old friends. $9 Day Pass. First Friday of each month.
College Night - 5-10pm, Friday, February 8th
Seeking a higher education? Let off some steam and join other students for an evening of climbing at a discounted rate. Day passes are $9 with a valid Washington State College ID (24 years and younger only).
Second Friday of each month.
Family Night - 5-10pm, Friday, February 15th
Bring the whole family and meet other climbing families! First adult family member pays full price ($15 day pass), additional family members pay $5. Third Friday of each month.
Military Night - 5-10pm, Friday, February 22nd
Edgeworks salutes our active military with a night of climbing just for you! Day passes are $9 with a valid Military ID. Fourth Friday of each month.

Edgeworks Climbing - 6102 N 9th Street #200, Tacoma, WA 98406
www.edgeworksclimbing.com - 253-564-4899

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