Edgeworks Climbing Newsletter
May 2007
In this issue...
Climbing the Flatirons - Boulder, CO
The Warriors Way - Mental Fitness Training for Climbers
T-Town Challenge - Results
Adult Training Team - Take Your Climbing to THE NEXT LEVEL
New Routes! - Competition Routes Are Up
2007 Summer Camps
Team Building at Edgeworks - Build Confidence, Trust and Respect Among Peers
This Month At Edgeworks - Edgeworks Monthly Events

Climbing the Flatirons - Boulder, CO  
  By Tod Bloxham
When you’re in Boulder, it's really hard to miss the Flatirons; they are a beautiful set of angled slab mountains about 1,000' tall that are right on the edge of town. The setting itself is actually pretty amazing considering that the Flatirons are part of a city park, lucky home owners are within a few minute walk of them, and they overlook the whole town of Boulder (and beyond!).
  On a trip to Boulder this last April, Edgeworks Manager Jayson Owens and I set out to climb the Direct East Face of the First Flatiron; This is the longest route on the First, some 1,000' long and requiring some 10 pitches of mostly trad climbing (using natural protection, little to no bolts). There are sections of serious run-out, but what the route lacks in protection it makes up for in being an all-around classic climb with stunning views and solid rock.  
  The morning we set out was a sunny but cool early spring morning; a perfect day for a climb. We quickly parked and set out for the 20 minute hike to the base of the route and found 2 parties ahead of us, one from Illinois, the other from Alaska. Being that there were groups ahead of us we decided to do a short variation to the right of their route that had 40'-80' of delicate run-out on some beautiful slab climbing. We quickly learned that we weren't going to be doing the usual pitch after pitch with belays, the climbing was easy and fun so we ended up simul-climbing right from the start.  
  Simul-climbing is where the lead climber and the 2nd (climber) climb at the same time on opposite ends of the rope. With less than 100' of rope between us, if one climber falls, we still have some protection in the rock to catch us. For Jayson and I this was a chance to go faster over easier ground and enjoy more continuous climbing.  
  The route featured narrow shelves, small dihedrals, and large pockets and chicken heads. One of the most interesting parts of the climb were the chicken heads themselves (chicken heads: small to large nubbins of rock sticking out from a slab of rock that you can grab or stand on). In some cases the chicken heads weren’t even chicken heads at all, they were horns or flakes resembling the shape of a chickens in which you could wrap slings around the necks and clip your rope to for protection. The last pitch was an interesting highlight of up and down climbing along the serrated ridge of the Flatiron while peering down overhanging drop off the far side. Looking over the edge with the wind pushing you around definitely made you keep a good hold of the rock.  
  The climbing was fun and we turned what was supposed to be 10 pitches into 4 long pitches and quickly reached the top. From the summit you could see all of Boulder, the snowy peaks of the Front Range (including Mt. Meeker, 13,911'), and the flat plains to the east with the skyscrapers of Downtown Denver in the distance (and maybe Oklahoma on the horizon). A great view and a great place to hang out on a warm sunny day. After enjoying the view, we finished the route with an fun overhanging (mid-air) 110' rappel to the hikers trail and a leisurely hike back down.  

The Direct East Face of the First Flatiron is a great intro to climbing in Boulder; the views are incredible, the climbing is relaxed and you can end your climb by driving a couple of blocks to Snarf's for lunch and have one of the best sandwich's in town.

  Climbing the Flatirons is definitely a must do for any climber visiting Boulder!  

The Flatirons, Boulder CO

Jayson Owens midway up the Direct East Face of the First Flatiron, Boulder CO.

  The Warrior's Way
  Mental Fitness Training for Climbers
The Warrior's Way Clinic with Arno Ilgner
  Time: Friday, May 11th, 12-4pm & 6-10pm
$75 non-members / $60 members (limit 6 per clinic)
  * Are you accomplishing all your climbing goals?
* Are you frustrated or disillusioned with your climbing?
* Have you hit a performance plateau?
* Could your mental approach be to blame?
  Edgeworks Climbing is hosting Arno Ilgner of the Desiderata Institute to teach his unique Warrior's Way clinics on mental fitness.  
  Some things that you will learn:
* Improve self observation skills
* Risk assessment
* Practice falling in small increments
* Set a powerful intention and commit to that intention
* Trust in the process
* Deal with climbing stress/chaos
* Improve problem-solving skills
* Reduce fear and more
"I believe The Warrior's Way will help climbers raise their level of power without any additional training."
-Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, 4 Time World Cup Champion
"The Warrior's Way is an invaluable guide for anyone sincerely looking to have a breakthrough in their approach to climbing."
-Chris Sharma

APRIL 28, 2007

The Edgeworks T-Town Climbing Challenge was a great success! Some of the best climbers in Tacoma, the northwest and the nation showed up to compete (including climbers from California and Idaho).
You don't have to be a top climber to compete; some of the climbers who had the most fun were in it just for the fun of it. Edgeworks members as well as family and friends alike lined up to test their skills on the best routes of the year at Edgeworks.
Thanks to all the climbers, staff and volunteers who helped make this years comp a success!

Edgeworks Climber
Linda Simoneaux - 1st Place

  Adult Training Team
  Whether you are a total novice or an experienced climber, if you are looking to take your climbing to the next level, the adult team is for you. Taught by our professional coaching staff, this training group meets twice a week for a 2 hour session designed to amp up your climbing. Course focuses on fundamental climbing skills and targeted training to eliminate your climbing 'weaknesses'.
  * Take your climbing to the next level as part of
  The Adult Training Team!
* Tuesdays/Thursdays, 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm
* Members: $75/month - Non-members: $95/month
* Ages 19 to 94

Call today for more information or to sign up!

New Routes!  
  Edgeworks has it's best routes of the year up now! We set for the competition all last week and we now have over 45 routes up that have been carefully set and refined for your enjoyment! Come try out the new routes!  
  Here's a sample of some of the best routes in the gym:
Rope 6: 5.10- Boondock Saints
  A body stemming route. Super Fun!
Rope 7: 5.8 Five Gallon Buckets
  Classic big jugs.
Rope 15: 5.13 Fight Club
  So hard no one has climbed it yet.
Rope 19: 5.12 Heinous Cling
  Can you find the hidden pocket? Pumpy!
Rope 28: 5.11 Milk Crate Fever
  Rumored to be Edgeworks best route ever!
Anchor I: 5.11+ Toxic
  A great lead route with a hard finish.
  New Grading Scheme:
Edgeworks has a new grading scheme for our roped routes. We've done away with the "a" "b" "c" "d" grades and are now using "-" "blank" "+". It's now easier than ever to find a route to climb!
Examples: Grade was: Grade is now:
  5.10a or 5.10b 5.10-
  5.10b or 5.10c 5.10
  5.10c or 5.10d 5.10+

Edgeworks Climber
Kimberly Nakano

  2007 Summer Camps!

Registration of our 2006 Youth Summer Camps has begun!
Edgeworks Climbing
is proud to offer week long summer camps and two day Family Camps for beginner, intermediate and advanced climbers of all ages! Whether you're looking for a camp to introduce your children to the sport of rock climbing or you're looking for a fun outing for the whole family, Edgeworks' summer camps are a fun and safe way to enjoy the sport of rock climbing this summer!

Our Featured Summer Camps

* Kids Rock Camp
  Indoor Only * Ages 6-10
* Basic Climbing Camp
  Indoor/Outdoor * Ages 9-17
* Advanced Climbing Camp
  Indoor/Outdoor * Ages 9-17
* Outdoor Rock Camp
  Indoor/Outdoor/Camping * Ages 10-17
* 2-Day Family Camp
  Indoor/Outdoor * For the whole Family * Ages 9 and older

(click here for camp details)
For more information and registration please call 253-564-4899.


Team Building Events at Edgeworks  
  Edgeworks Climbing hosts team building events for companies and groups that build confidence, trust and respect among peers. We use classic team building exercises combined with climbing specific activities to produce a truly memorable event. Our programs are a fun and exciting way to build a group that pulls together to get those tough projects completed.
  Events Details:
* Available 7 days a week
* 2-hour, Half-Day and Full-Day Events
* Proven confidence and trust building activities
* Problem Solving Games/Activities, Climbing and Rappelling
* All Events Hosted by our Senior Level Instructors

  *For more information and pricing contact
 Jayson Owens - 253-564-4899

This Month at Edgeworks!
  May is a great time to climb at Edgeworks. We have what many consider to be the best routes of the year, due to our April Competition. And we are hosting two clinics that will hone your “mental game” and prepare you for some great summer climbing.
For our full schedule of this months calendar (click here)!
  Women's Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May 4th
Ladies - Come on in and climb, after 5pm at a discounted rate. Meet lots of new friends and climb hard with old friends. $9 Day Pass. First Friday of each month.
  College Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May 11th
Seeking a higher education? Let off some steam and join other students for an evening of climbing at a discounted rate. Day passes are $9 with a valid Washington State College ID.
Second Friday of each month.
  Family Night - 5-10pm, Friday, May 18th
Bring the whole family and meet other climbing families! First adult family member pays full price ($15 day pass), additional family members pay $5.
Third Friday of each month.

Edgeworks Climbing - 6102 N 9th Street #200, Tacoma, WA 98406
https://www.edgeworksclimbing.com/ - 253-564-4899

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