Effective March 1, 2023

As climbing evolves, so do the technologies, techniques, and best practices we use to mitigate the risk of our sport. Effective March 1, 2023, all Edgeworks locations will adopt an Assisted-Braking Device (ABD) policy for all top rope and lead belaying in the gym. 

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?

Beginning March 1, 2023, non-assisted belay devices (ATCs or similar) will no longer be allowed for general use in our facilities. 

TOP 3 “WHY” FACTORS

1. Minimizes risk
2. Adds redundancy
3. Reduces human error

Moving to an ABD-only policy in our facilities will help climbers better mitigate risk in the gym; ABD’s help prevent accidents in a way that older style tube-style/unassisted belay devices cannot do.  Similar to seatbelts, ABDs easily add another level of security. 

FAQ: Click here for answers to the most common questions we’ve received about this change.

RESOURCES DURING TRANSITION

We’re providing several options to assist climbers through the transition, including:

Info Nights with Vendors. We’ve invited the folks from Black Diamond (Ryan Spivey), Petzl (Jay Dufrense), Edelrid (Anna Campbell) and Mammut (Collin Jenkins) to help us showcase available assisted belay devices and provide information to learn and make informed decisions on the products available. 

These events will be held from 6-9pm on the following dates:
• March 7:  Bellevue
• March 8:  Tacoma
• March 9:  Seattle

No registration required! We hope to see you there. 

Tips and demos from our staff. If you’ve never used an ABD before, our staff will happily show you how to use any ABD.  No appointment required, just come see us at the desk!

Free clinics for members. Grigris are not the only ABD only option! Our climbing school instructors are offering free 30 minute clinics designed to teach you how a variety of different active and passive ABDs work, how to use them, and offer recommended belay techniques for various models. Registration is now open, sign up online!

Free rental devices. We will have a selection of Black Diamond Pilots and Mammut Smart 2.0s available for use during the transition.

30% off all ABD devices in our retail shop. Including discounts on Black Diamond Pilots, Edelrid Giga Juls and Jul 2s, Petzl Grigris, and Mammut Smart 2.0s. 

(Limited time offers through March 31, 2023)

MORE INFO:

ABDs provide redundancy.
“In climbing, we use backups all the time.  We use them as an integral part of our systems and we often use words like redundancy and security when we’re talking about backups.  In every case, the basic concept is the same: a climber relies on one system to stay safe, and there is another system that acts as a back-up in case the primary system fails or malfunctions.” – American Alpine Club

Human error reduction.
“Brake assist was basically created to add a “belay backup” in case of emergency or misuse while belaying, with the added bonus of being able to hold the weight of the climber once activated. The basic concept is that in the event the rope moves too quickly through the device, for example if a belayer loses control, the speed and friction on the device cause it to move in a way that stops the rope from feeding.” – Weigh My Rack

Belay Technique
This policy change does not change the way Edgeworks expects people to belay.  As always, all belayers must maintain control of the brake strand at all times and be alert and attentive while belaying.  ABDs are not “auto-locking” or “hands-free” and should not be treated as such.

Edgeworks is committed to increasing equity and inclusion across race, gender, age, religion, identity, and experience; working to build a culture where difference is valued, innovation thrives and adventure is accessible to all.

As part of this commitment we’ve developed a scholarship program for participation in the following Youth Programs:

• Mini Rockers (6 weeks)
• Beginning Climbers (6 weeks)
• Junior Climbers (1 year)
• Club Climbers (1 year)
• Team Edgeworks (1 year)

4 scholarships are awarded per location, each one includes:

• 100% of program fees
• Rental gear during program: shoes, harness, belay device
• Edgeworks membership benefits for the duration of the program

Click the link below to learn more about the application and selection process.

LUKAS ANDERSON

I am excited to announce that I was offered and have accepted the position of Team Head Coach here at Edgeworks Tacoma. It has been a pleasure working with the team thus far, and I have sincerely enjoyed getting to know all of your athletes better. I would like to express my gratitude to all of you for your support of Team Edgeworks, as well as the consistent support you provide your athletes.

A bit about myself.

I started as an assistant coach at Edgeworks in August 2022, and had been climbing for about twelve years before that. I began my journey with climbing right here at Edgeworks Tacoma when I was sixteen years old, and have kept at it to varying degrees since. A Tacoma native, I graduated from Stadium High School in 2012, and went on to receive my Bachelors in International Studies at The University of Washington in 2016. 

In 2017, I moved to Japan to work as an English Teacher as part of the Official Jet Program USA. I spent four years as an Elementary and Junior High school teacher, and one year working at a private tutoring institution. My fiancé and I moved back to the Pacific Northwest in June of last year, and were married in mid-July. It has been an incredibly exciting couple of years, with many perspective changes and important life lessons learned. 

My time teaching in Japan left a lasting impression on me, and cultivated my passion for youth education. Upon my return to the US, I decided to do whatever I could to combine this passion for education with my own passion for climbing, and found myself extremely lucky to land a job here at Edgeworks Tacoma.

The assistant coach position has provided me the perfect space to begin applying my teaching skills in a much more physical and competitive environment. While I have a lot to learn as head coach, I am super excited to focus on a few things moving forward: I am incredibly excited to be working as head coach, and look forward to giving my all to help our team be the best it can be.

Boulder Season and Divisional Recap

Congrats to all of our competitors this season! We had awesome performances by every climber and will be sending two athletes to the Youth National Championships this July.

Our focus has shifted to ropes in preparation for the first competition in March. If you are a parent interested in belaying at competitions, please see below for info about a belay clinic this weekend at Vertical World North.

Items in this newsletter:

• Practice Registration Links
• Competition Belay Clinic Info
• Summer Camp Opportunities!! (Highly Recommended)
• Competition Schedule / USA Climbing Membership Information
• Try-Outs & Summer Schedule
• Team Lock-In!!
• Family Contact Form
• Team Handbook

As always, feel free to email the coaching staff at your location with any questions.

Practice Registration Links:

Thank you to everyone for using the practice registration system! This has been a huge help in managing the Team and ensuring our practices are staffed appropriately.

Please check your email for registration links.

Competition Lead Belaying Clinic

If you have been interested in belaying at competitions, please check out the clinic happening this weekend at Vertical World North. USA Climbing Chief Belayers Laura Domoto and Don Mason, will conduct this instructional clinic covering all aspects of lead belaying for competition. Clinic participants will participate as both climber and belayer.

Registration is required; please check your email for more info.

NEW! Adventure Rock 5 – Overnight Summer Camp

Designed for young adults, Adventure Rock 5 offers an overnight format. Campers will enjoy FIVE DAYS CLIMBING OUTDOORS at various locations in western Washington and four nights of car camping under the supervision of our professionally trained guides. Your climber will tour a handful of climbing areas, develop camping skills, and learn about outdoor leading and multi-pitch climbing.

Campers should be able to top rope belay, lead climb at least 5.9 in the gym, and have general experience outdoors.

Ages: 14 – 17
Skill Level: Advanced
Outdoor Days: 5 days | 4 nights
Price: $1098 members | $1220 non-members

Dates:
August 7 – August 11 (departs from Edgeworks Bellevue)
August 14 – August 18 (departs from Edgeworks Seattle)

Click below for more information and to register!

USA Climbing Competition Schedule

The rope competition schedule has been posted. Please be sure to register as soon as possible as these events will fill up fast!

In order to qualify for Regionals, each competitor will need to compete in at least two competitions. Your best results from two competitions will be used determine your Ranking Points. I strongly recommend attending as many competitions as possible to have the best chance at qualifying.

Mar 11: Summit, Everett – (Registration Opens Saturday!)
Mar 18: Insight Climbing & Movement, Bainbridge
Mar 25: Vertical Word North, Lynwood
Apr 1: Riverfront Rock Gym, Wenatchee
Apr 8: High Steppe Climbing Center, Yakima
Apr 15: Edgeworks Tacoma!!
May 13: Riverfront Rock Gym, Wenatchee (Regional Championships)
Jun 10 – 11: Alaska Rock Gym, Anchorage (Divisional Championships)

IMPORTANT! Competitor Membership

In order to compete in a USA Climbing event, all athletes will need to obtain a competitor level membership. This membership will be $105 and covers the entire 2022-2023 competitive season. Follow the link below and complete your membership as soon as possible.

Team Edgeworks Overnight Lock-In!

You asked and we listened! Team Edgeworks will be hosting overnight lock-ins at each of our facilities on May 5, 2023.

These events will be held from 10pm to 7am the following morning and will consist of open climbing, games, instruction, and movies. Registration is now open and Team members are welcome to attend any location.

Please check your email for registration links.

TEAM EDGEWORKS Try-Out Dates & Summer Schedule

Try-Outs: (registration will open May 1st)
July 21st | Tacoma
July 28th | Bellevue
August 4th | Seattle

No Practice:
July 4th | All locations: early gym closure due to holiday
July 9th – 16th | All locations: summer break for National Championships and admin
July 21st | Tacoma only: try-outs during the day
July 28th | Bellevue only: try-outs during the day
August 4th | Seattle only: try-outs during the day

* A summary of social media messages distributed by Edgeworks in Summer 2020. *

Edgeworks stands in solidarity with those speaking out against systemic racism in our country, demanding justice and change.

In the days, weeks and months following George Floyd’s murder, Edgeworks staff and management took time to pause, read, listen, watch, learn, discuss and plan. Understanding that in order to instill the changes we want to see for Black people in our country, we must first explore and embrace the work of anti-racism ourselves. Work that is not always externally visible but critically important.

Accountability through visibility is also important.

For that reason, we began to share our action based initiatives on our website and social media. Additionally, we committed to continuing the use of our platforms to amplify BIPOC voices and representation in both the climbing community and outdoor spaces.

Our initiatives include: (updated 12/2022)

1. Share our DEI statement
2. Establish a staff-led DEI Advisory Committee
3. Provide staff education + resources
4. Review + update hiring practices
5. Support our community partners via collaborations: Climbers of Color all POC lead rope comp, BIPOC climb nights and free memberships for group organizers/volunteers.
6. Support our community partners via donations: Climbers of Color, Na’ah Illahee Fund, Wing Luke Museum, El Centro de la Raza
7. Support our community and partners via scholarships: Youth Programs, Summer Camps, BIPOC Guide Development Program, CoC BIPOC reduced rate membership
8. Promote inclusion through messaging, program development + representation
9. VOTE!

Stand Against Hatred: March 2021

In 2020 we marched, held signs and posted our DEI statements. Now, we will continue to hold ourselves accountable. 

Since the start of the pandemic, there have been an unprecedented number of violent attacks against Asians, Asian Americans and Pacific Islanders in our communities, throughout the country and beyond. We can no longer stay silent. Help us to unite and rise above racism by calling out these injustices and bringing attention to them.

Additional information and resources can be found here.

Justice, Equity, Diversity + Inclusion

Diversity fuels the spirit of our staff and community. Our commitment to equity and inclusion across race, gender, age, religion, identity, and experience builds a culture where difference is valued, innovation thrives and adventure is accessible to all.

Our job as staff is to stay grounded in these initiatives and hold space for them through implementation, conversations and adaption. Perfectionism is not the goal; our work in these areas is ongoing.

If we misstep along the way, we invite you to correct us. Please feel free to reach out to our leadership staff here.

An ALL DAY Event! Friday, December 2, 2022

Featuring treats, clinics, fun challenges, evening social and our 1-Day Membership Sale.

We value our members and designed a special day just for them!

Morning, afternoon, and night, we’ve put together a schedule of fun featuring all the best Edgeworks has to offer. Stop by the gym for the 1-DAY MEMBERSHIP SALE and stick around for the fun activities.

Click the link for your home gym to view what they have planned for you!
Space is limited so be sure to sign up early.

WAKE-UP with Edgeworks

Featuring FREE coffee, mimosas & donuts! 

Starting at 6:00am, we’re kicking things off with fun morning treats for all of our early bird members.

FREE! Climbing Clinics

Clinics are for members only. Space is limited; sign up online!

From afternoon to evening, we’ve created another line-up of FREE climbing clinics designed to help improve your technical skills and offer a glimpse into the possibilities that our Climbing School courses have to offer. 

Each location will feature a different schedule so be sure to click the link for your home gym to view what they’ve planned for you!

• Better Lead Belaying
• Crack Climbing
• Knots & Hitches
• Anchors 
• Rappelling … and more!

SPECIAL FITNESS CLASSES

Friday fitness classes? Yes, please!

Here to help you finish your week strong and roll into the weekend ready for whatever life throws your way, a few of our favorite fitness instructors will be here to offer a special Friday line-up of classes and clinics.

Members only. Space is limited; sign up online!

FUN CHALLENGES + PRIZES

Test your skills and speed against those of other members and staff. 

ROPE COILING: See how fast you can coil a 60 meter rope. The fastest time will win a free rope from our Pro Shop!

KNOT TYING CHALLENGE: Tie as many different knots as you can in 60 seconds while wearing a bandana over your eyes. The most correctly tied knots will win a free cordelette and prusik cord from our Pro Shop!

MEMBER SOCIAL!

Community is the thing that keeps people coming back to Edgeworks. It happens naturally among climbers and through the monthly events, clinics, socials and meet up groups that help bring everyone together. 

We invite you to come find “your people”… because they’re also “our people”.

The social begins 7:00pm and will feature free drinks, friendly climbing banter and plenty of smiles. Please bring your best climbing gym etiquette and join us for the celebration!

Rent the gear needed for your next outdoor climbing adventure!

Check out our ALL NEW outdoor gear rental program, including:

• Climbing Shoes
• Crash Pads
• Climbing Helmets (adult + youth)

For more details, stop by the front desk or give us a call.

• Bellevue: (425) 644-2445
• Seattle: (206) 781-9828
• Tacoma: (253) 564-4899

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 30

Building on the ENERGY, STOKE and FUN of our previous October bouldering competitions, Edgeworks Tacoma is excited to introduce the TACOMA BOULDER CHALLENGE!

A Redpoint-style citizen comp designed to build community, ignite the joys of climbing and reimagine your climbing ability on a stellar selection of competition style boulders. 

While this year’s comp will not be black light, we remain committed to delivering many of the same essentials as before, including:

•   BEST ROUTES of the year   •   AWARDS + RAFFLE PRIZES   •   DJ DEVINE   •   AFTER PARTY (21+)

Please note our full weekend comp schedule and see below for planned wall closures:
• Saturday, October 29 | USAC Youth Qualifying Events
• Sunday, October 30 | TBC Community Comp

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

TBC | COMPETITION DETAILS:

Location: Edgeworks Tacoma
Date: Sunday, October 30, 2022
Session 1: 11:00am – 2:00pm
Session 2: 3:00pm – 6:00pm
Awards + After Party: 6:00pm – 8:00pm

Climbing Discipline: Bouldering
Format: Redpoint, no finals

Categories:
Female/Male: Recreation | Intermediate | Advanced | Open | Masters (45+ yrs)
Non-Binary: All climbing abilities

Ages: Competitors must be 16 years or older
Cost: Sign up early to save!
• Pre-registration: $45/members or $55/ non-members, before 10/26
• Day-of registration: $60/everyone 

Prize Sponsors: 

Deuter • Patagonia • Metolius • Sterling • Asana • Petzl • Scarpa • Butora / 8b+ • Yeti • Rock Junkies • Outdoor Research • Friction Labs • Mammut • Pusher Holds • Comfortable Adventures • Stoked

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

TBC | COMP DAY SCHEDULE:

SESSION 1: 11:00am – 2:00pm

Categories: Non-binary: All | Beginner: Men | Intermediate: Women | Advanced: Men | Open: Men
*Both sessions are open to all competitors, though these categories are recommended.

Competitor Check-in: 10:30am
Competitor Rules Meeting: 10:50am
Climbing: 11:00am – 2:00pm

SESSION 2: 3:00pm – 6:00pm

Categories: Masters: All | Beginner: Women | Intermediate: Men | Advanced: Women | Open: Women 
*Both sessions are open to all competitors, though these categories are recommended.

Competitor Check-in: 2:30pm
Competitor Rules Meeting: 2:50pm
Climbing: 3:00pm – 6:00pm

AWARDS + AFTER PARTY: 6:00pm – 8:00pm
Beverages, Fun + Games: 6:00pm – 8:00pm
Raffle Prizes: 6:15pm
Awards: 7:00pm
After Party (21+): 6:00pm – 8:00pm

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

WAIVERS:

When in doubt, fill one out! All climbers must complete a signed waiver or have one on file with Edgeworks in order to participate. Waivers must be renewed each year. Click here now!

AWARDS + RAFFLE PRIZES:

Instead of cash prizes, we choose to invest that money into some pretty sweet swag that everyone has a chance to win! The top 3 competitors in each category are guaranteed to walk away with a prize. Beyond that, our raffle prize system ensures that every competitor has a chance to walk away with a prize; competitors must be present to win. Raffle prizes will start at 6:15pm and continue throughout the awards!

FREE AFTER PARTY! 6pm – 8pm

Once the competition ends, competitors and guests who are 21+ are invited to join us for the after party! Please note: all climbing will shut down at the conclusion of the community comp; post-comp climbing sessions will not be available during this time.

_________________________________________________________________________

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS: 

Who can compete?

All climbers age 16 or older are welcome to compete. We will have up to 60 competitors in each session, a total of 120 competitors throughout the day.

What is a Redpoint format?

A Redpoint format provides many different climbing routes. Each route has a different level of difficulty and a unique point value commensurate to the level of difficulty. Points are gained only if the route is completed. If you can not complete a climb, you may return your scorecard to the queue and try again. Climbers are given 3 hours to complete as many routes as desired; with a climber’s top 5 adding up their final score. Falls will be used to determine tie-breakers. 

Do you need help?

Yes, we’re looking for volunteers for both sessions. Find out more about what is needed and how you will be rewarded your for your time here. Volunteering is the best way to get a front row seat to all the action!

How much does it cost?

Sign up early to save! Presale prices are $45 for members and $55 for guests; ends Wednesday, 10/26.
Day-of registration cost is $60.

Can I watch but not compete?

Yes! Spectators are welcome throughout the day or you can volunteer to help with competitor queues and judging, giving you a front row seat to all the action!

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WALL + GYM CLOSURES:

MONDAY, OCTOBER 24th – SUNDAY, OCTOBER 30th:

WALL CLOSURES

Competition setting will begin to take place Monday evening; closed areas will include all of the bouldering walls as well as some of the top rope walls in the West Bay.

The top rope and lead walls in the East Bay will remain open to members and customers during this time.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2022 | ALL DAY:

LIMITED CLIMBING AVAILABLE.
CLOSED areas include:
• ALL of the climbing walls in the WEST BAY; including all boulder and lower level rope walls.
• Weight + Cardio areas; including Campus Board
• Upstairs area; including lounge, yoga studio and Kilter Board

OPEN areas include:
• The EAST BAY will be OPEN for rope climbing.

All youth programs, climbing school courses and fitness classes will be canceled.
Our parking lot will be full so please plan ahead! Spectators are welcome in the competition area.

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 30, 2022 | ALL DAY:

LIMITED CLIMBING AVAILABLE.
CLOSED areas include:
• ALL of the climbing walls in the WEST BAY; including all boulder and lower level rope walls.
• Weight + Cardio areas; including Campus Board

OPEN areas include:
• The EAST BAY will be OPEN for rope climbing Sunday, October 30.
• Upstairs area; including lounge, yoga studio and Kilter Board

All youth programs, climbing school courses and fitness classes will be canceled.
Our parking lot will be full so please plan ahead! Spectators are welcome in the competition area.