Crushing Tip #6

Repeat Ascents

We like to think of our routes as ways to teach good climbing movement. Getting to the top of a route means that you’ve started to learn the lessons of a specific route. “But just like good movies deserve repeat viewings and good restaurants deserve repeat visits, good routes deserve repeat ascents.” Explains Jon Manz.

Trying to climb routes faster, smoother, quieter, or with a different sequence are all great ways to learn something new from a route you’ve already “finished”. Alex Huber once said you haven’t really mastered a route until you can climb it both up and down. He just might be onto something.

What to do? This month find a handful of routes near your climbing level and… CLIMB. Put up a few ascents on each until, “you can climb it both up and down.”

Crushing Tip #5

Last month we talked about how a coach could help you set up a training program. Continuing that train of thought, Jayson Owens has another suggestion: “GET a coach!” He explains, “you can’t dramatically improve on your own. You have to climb with others.”

Basically, it’s important for you to climb with someone stronger and more experienced than you. Your new coach should watch out for and correct any errors you might be making. Having someone help point out climbing mistakes will help you crush more, faster.

What to do? There’s a few choices, you can buddy up with fellow Edgeworks member who are willing to climb with you. Also, if you’re up for it, there’s a more structured option: getting coaching through Rock Sessions or ProRock.

Crushing Tip #4

One of the best ways to improve your climbing is to find a mentor, a coach, who can help you set up your training schedules. Until you’ve got your own, you can take this Climbing Tip from the Edgeworks Team Coach, Jon Manz. “One important aspect of improving is to manage your training cycles,” explains Jon, “don’t focus on strength every time you train. Vary your work out.” Essentially, we have to establish training days to build important and specific climbing skills and muscles.

You should build a training pattern where you incorporate strength, power-endurance, endurance, and rest days into your weekly schedule. Try this out:

  • On day 1, focus on strength; hit up the bouldering wall and weights. You’re looking to increase your strength.
  • Day 2 is a power-endurance day. You’re going to head over to roped routes and climb at a consistently hard level (but not your hardest), while increasing your volume of climbing.
  • On Day 3, it’s all about endurance. Here’s where you focus on the traverse. Stay on the wall as long as you can.
  • Follow this cycle with a good rest day and repeat.

Crushing Tip #3

Are you serious about improving your climbing? Andy Davis has some advice: “Open up your hands and your mind will follow.”Frequently climbers get into the (bad) habit of over using their muscles. One example is bending your knuckles and crimping down on holds. Avoid doing this by “Open handing everything.” Andy explains that, “by bending your knuckles you’re engaging unnecessary muscle groups and increasing your chance of injury.”

Here’s what to do: While traversing, pay attention to your fingers and how much you’re bending your knuckles. The idea is to climb on your fingertips while keeping your knuckles flatter.


Open Handed – Good


Keep your hand open and knuckles flat. This will build up your slopper strength and increase your ability to climb hard.

Crimped Fingers – Bad


Having your knuckles bent requires extra energy and increases the likelihood of injury.

Crushing Tip #2

Are you serious about improving your climbing? Mike Dove’s got some advice:

Three Steps to Crushing… BATMAN STYLE!

1. Sure the tool belt is awesome. But, the mind is the most important tool for defeating your enemies. You wanna crush your project? Use yo’ mind!

2. You think my good looks and muscles got me this far? Yeah, they help, but impeccable technique always beats brute force. I mean look how many times I’ve wooped Superman!

3. It’s all about priorities. You don’t see me taking a day off of crime-fighting to hit the Go-Kart track. If you want to get better at climbing, you need to climb more. Period.

There you have it. Three easy steps to improve your climbing. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’ve got to stop the Joker.

Crushing Tip #1

Even though off the rock, you’re a pretty adept breather, this month’s tip is reminding you to keep it up while you’re climbing too. “It’s easy to forget how important breathing is,” points out Ken Brukhart, “you’re focused on a tough move so you forget. It happens to everyone.” Even experienced climbers need a friendly nudge to inhale.

So what to do? Always remind yourself to breathe. Ken says, “you should repeat it over and over again: breathe, breathe, breathe, breathe.”

Looking to further improve your climbing? Check out our Private Lessons or ProRock Coaching programs.