Member Spotlight: Oct 2018

Shannon & Liz Kelley-Fong

Members since 2016

How did you start climbing?

Liz: My last couple of roommates, before I met Shannon, climbed and so I would just tag along with them occasionally. Shannon and I first met when my roommate invited both of us to go climb at exit 38. I’ve been climbing regularly with her ever since. More on that later.

Shannon: I took an intro class in college but didn’t really get into it until grad school. It became a great way to meet awesome people.

Why do you climb at Edgeworks?

Liz: It’s western Washington, 70% of the time it’s too wet to climb outside locally. The staff and members are great! The expansion has definitely been a bonus.

Shannon: The new lead walls are certainly a good reason. Free beer on member nights certainly helps. I look forward to the day that
they open at 6AM so I can start my day off right with a climbing sesh before work. …hint, hint, nudge, nudge.

What do you do when you’re not climbing?

Both: Where did the summer go? Various home-remodeling projects have kept us busy of late. So far we’ve completely redone our kitchen, scraped and repainted the exterior, and just added 40’ of retaining wall to the front. Next up: adding a 2nd bathroom & remodeling the existing one.

Where is your favorite place to climb outside?

Both: Lately Red Rocks, Nevada. Liz travels there once a year in the fall for work and it makes for a great inexpensive escape from the rain in the spring. While it can be a bit chilly or hot, it’s sunny. The area offers great options for all levels of sport climbing and bouldering, win-win!

Which do you prefer: top rope, lead, or bouldering?

Shannon: I started as a boulderer. Logistically it was easier for a new climber. But I was won over, or converted to the dark side (depending on how you see it), by sport climbing. Honestly- I’m content doing both. It really boils down to who I am climbing with. Crack climbing remains an enigma to me… I challenge someone to help with that.

Liz: It’s nice to mix it up, but probably lean toward lead, top rope, bouldering in that order.

What are some interesting facts that you’d like to share with the Edgeworks community?

Shannon: Liz and I initially met on a climbing trip organized by a mutual friend. We didn’t know at the time but we were being intentionally set up by this friend. This trip was Liz’s first outdoor climbing experience. She did awesome. Toward the end of the day, I asked Liz if she’d like to learn how to repel. Without any hesitation she said yes. A year later, on the day, we got married.

What’s your go-to route grade?

Shannon: Grade fun. Outside, I’ve been working on getting more comfortable on pushing through 5.11s. Inside, I’ll try pretty much anything, why not. 
Liz: 99% of the time I stick in the 10 range.  I’ll try the odd 11 if Shannon recommends it

 

2018 Black Light Comp

Saturday, October 27
2018 Black Light Bouldering Competition + Party

ADULT RESULTS ←(click the link)
YOUTH & CCS RESULTS ←(click the link)

For 14 years our Black Light Bouldering comps have been known as one of the MOST FUN climbing events in the region – this comp delivers CREATIVITY, STOKE and FUN unlike any other climbing competition in our area. From the route setting, black light tape decor, costumes and DJ to the pre-registation swag bags, awards and raffle prizes, each year keeps getting better.

And, if you haven’t been to Edgeworks in a while you can expect some other exciting changes as well… our expansion project will be complete just in time for the comp. Please pay attention to the signs directing you where to go, because some things will be different (better!) than in previous years.

While you’re here, be sure to check out the VIDEO from a previous Black Light comp!←(click the link to watch).
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COMPETITION DETAILS:

Saturday, October 27, 2018

Competition Format: Red point; no finals.

Registration Includes:
 BEST ROUTES of the year   Black light FUN  •  AWARDS  •  RAFFLE PRIZES (Adult & Youth)  
•  COSTUME CONTEST  •  After PARTY (21+)  
  BLACK LIGHT Tee or Tank (add’l $15, must register by Oct. 10th)  

SESSION 1: 
• Categories*: ALL USAC YOUTH
Check-In: 9:30am
Rules Meeting: 10:30am
Competition: 11:00am-2:00pm
SESSION 2: 
Categories*: USAC CCS & ADULTS
Check-In: 1:30pm
Rules Meeting: 2:30pm & 2:45pm
 Competition: 3:00pm-6:00pm

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
* Competitors must register for the assigned session for their category; i.e. youth in Session 1, adults in Session 2.
* Youth under 18 who wish to compete in session 2 must sign up for OPEN categories; no youth under 16 allowed to compete in the Adult session.
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ADULT Categories: Male/Female
Recreation (v0 -v2) | Intermediate (v3-v4) | Advanced (v5-v6)Open (v7+) | Masters (45+ yrs)

AWARDS and RAFFLE PRIZES:
Instead of cash prizes, we choose to invest that money into some pretty sweet swag that everyone has a chance to win! The top 3 competitors in each ADULT category are guaranteed to walk away with a prize. Beyond that, our raffle prize system ensures that every competitor has a chance to win something too. Competitors must be present to win. Raffle prizes will be given out after the Adult Awards (approx 7pm) and will include a sweet Grand Prize drawing!

COSTUME CONTEST – 6:30pm
Compete dressed as your favorite super hero, celebrity or animal; or just decorate yourself in the best glow imaginable and be entered to win a fun prize in our Costume Contest.

MUSIC/DJ (all day) and FOOD TRUCKS (11am-4pm)
Enjoy the musical stylings of DJ Johnny Devine and grab a bite from the Sirius Wood Fired Pizza food truck between sessions. There’s a lot going on, we want make sure you stay fueled and entertained.

FREE AFTER PARTY! 6PM – 8PM
Once the competition ends, everyone 21+ is invited to join us in the upstairs for FREE beer/ciderComp registration not required.

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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS: 

Prizes: 1st, 2nd and 3rd place competitors in all Adult Categories will receive a sweet product prize from one of our event sponsors.

USAC Credit and OPEN Category: USAC Competitors CANNOT get credit for the comp if they compete in the OPEN Category. In the event that a USAC participant wants to compete for BOTH USAC credit AND prizes they must register for and climb in both sessions. Yes, that means they have to pay twice.

Climbing Time: Climbers will be allowed EXACTLY 3 hours to climb. All climbing will end at the 3 hour mark.

USAC Membership/Number: All USAC competitors must have a current USAC membership or purchase a USAC Introductory Membership ($20) to compete. Memberships must be purchased online before the competition begins. Introductory Memberships can be used at multiple local events; you do not need to purchase a new one for each local event .

Waivers: When in doubt, fill one out! All competitors must have a current waiver on file and any waivers completed for last year’s comp are now expired. Click here now!

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WALL and AREA CLOSURES:

Wednesday – Friday, October 24th – 26th:
Wall closures will begin as competition setting takes place; closed areas will include all of the bouldering walls as well as most of the shorter top rope walls. The new/taller top rope and lead walls will remain open to members and customers throughout the comp!

Saturday, October 27th | Gym Hours 10am – 8pm
The right half to two-thirds of the gym (including the bouldering area, upstairs lounge, yoga and instruction rooms) will be open to competitors only but the new/taller walls will remain OPEN to members and customers throughout the day! All youth programs, climbing school courses and fitness classes will be cancelled. Our parking lot will be full so please plan ahead! Spectators are welcome in the competition area.

Even better news is the gym will fully reopen on Sunday, October 28 with a HUGE selection of brand new boulder problems for everyone to try!

Member Spotlight: Sept 2018

Kyle Sexton

Member since 2015

How did you start climbing?

Kyle: I started climbing for my daughters. It’s great exercise; building upper body strength and self confidence. I believe it will be easier for them to be kind and caring people if they are first confident people, secure in themselves. Climbing gives them self confidence and belief in themselves. It helps with learning about goals and the satisfaction of completing a challenge. Climbing is also something that we could do together, and provides some serious daddy/daughter time. Nothing builds trust between a parent and his/her kid like holding them up on a rope 30 feet off the ground.

Why do you climb at Edgeworks?

Kyle: I climb to stay in shape, clear my mind, and attempt to stay ahead of my kids. It’s also a great community of people to be around.

What do you do when you’re not climbing?

Kyle: Yard work and work work. Sadly, I’m almost always working. I come to Edgeworks to get away from work for a second and clear my mind. I used to run to clear my mind, but my knees aren’t having that anymore.

Where is your favorite place to climb outside?

Kyle: LOL. I’ve never climbed outside. Work keeps me super busy, so I climb recreationally indoors only (so far). You might find me climbing an escalator at the airport a couple times a week, but that’s about it.

Which do you prefer: top rope, lead, or bouldering?

Kyle: Bouldering. I could boulder forever. I like how bouldering can either be short and intense puzzles, or a continuous lap around the gym. I boulder until my hands say, “nope”.

What are some interesting facts that you’d like to share with the Edgeworks community?

Kyle: If you or a child ever get rock dust or chalk dust in your eye; cup your hand, fill it with water, lean forward with your eye closed into your cupped hand into the water and blink rapidly. The surface tension of the water along with the blinking motion will suck the debris right out. It’s the quickest, easiest way to remove a foreign body from your eye.

What’s your go-to route grade?

Kyle: 5.10. It’s difficult enough to provide a challenge and a workout, but generally easily enough that I don’t need assistance.

 

Endless Summer Climbing Camps

Summer break isn’t over yet for Tacoma Public Schools.

More Summer + More Climb Time = More FUN!

Edgeworks’ “ENDLESS SUMMER” climbing camps are a fun way for young climbers of all abilities to stay active & engaged during this extended school break.

Campers will spend time with our youth instructors and coaches learning the basics of climbing with a mix of activities and games keeping them engaged and learning. Each day is unique and will offer adventures that your child will never forget!

Sign up for 1 day or multiple days. Camp offerings and registration will remain open until the district negotiations are settled and the kids head back to school.

Details:

 •  Age Groups: 7 – 12 yrs  -or-  12+ yrs
 •  Times: Monday – Friday;  8:30am – 12:00pm  -or-  12:00 – 3:30pm
 •  Skill Level: No Experience Necessary!
 •  Cost: $40 per day
 •  Starting: September 7th – ??

Ages: 7-12 Sign Up Now             Ages: 12+Sign Up Now

Cancellations:
Payment is non-refundable.
In the event of the negotiations settling and school resuming, all subsequent camp days will be cancelled and fully refunded!

 

Member Spotlight: Aug 2018

Bonilla-Franklin Family

Sam, Aleksa, Anora & Ember | Members since 2017

How did you start climbing?

Aleksa: We all started light rock climbing while living in Boulder, Colorado. It is a fun and challenging activity for all of us!

Why do you climb at Edgeworks?

Aleksa: Our family climbs at Edgeworks because it is so family friendly, easily accessible, and also has a wonderfully fantastic and positive atmosphere.

What do you do when you’re not climbing? 

Aleksa: When we’re not climbing, we can be found hiking, park hopping, biking, occasionally Geo-Caching or running. Aleksa, Anora and Ember also enjoy participating in karate 3 to 4 times a week.

Which do you prefer: top rope, lead, or bouldering?

Aleksa: Top rope and bouldering have been top on our list so far.

What are some interesting facts that you’d like to share with the Edgeworks community?

Aleksa: Interesting facts about the family include Anora’s ability to whistle a variety of songs, especially Star Wars themed; Ember is an aspiring artist, with a focus on animals; Aleksa loves to cook anything vegetarian or vegan, and Sam enjoys long and grueling bike rides, and consuming any pork product he can get his hands on.

What’s your go-to route grade?

Aleksa: Sam’s go to routes are 5.10 to 5.11, Aleksa works on 5.8 and 5.9, Anora can handle 5.7-5.9, and Ember will climb anything from a 5.6 to a 5.10!

 

Guides of Edgeworks

Trip Report: Mt. Rainier | July 2018

by Andrew Powell

On July 15, 2018, Edgeworks’ head guide, Tod Bloxham, 4 guests, and I gathered at the gym to prep gear and drive out to the White River Ranger Station to begin our journey up Mt. Rainier.

Day 1
The forecast was good, if a bit too hot. We knew the sky would be clear and that there would be a lot of sunscreen in the coming 4 days. What we didn’t know, is that the standard Emmons-Winthrop route was rapidly falling apart.

The first day was an approach hike into Glacier Basin. The views of the route and mountain on the way to this camp are phenomenal and it serves as a means to ease into the 10’000ft gain of our trip. We enjoyed each-others company, told stories, and spent the evening generally relaxing and appreciating the views.

Day 2
Day two was allocated for snow skills training and the push to Camp Schurman. After a hearty breakfast and a casual start, we moved up the mountain and dialed in some essential climbing skills, like self-arrest and efficiency in snow travel.

As we continued up the mountain, we began to receive reports from other groups who were on their way out of hazardous conditions on the route, including collapsing snow bridges and at least one crevasse fall that required climber extraction. This news was a bit ominous, but Tod and I remained optimistic. Upon reaching Camp Schurman, the climbing rangers on sight gave us a run down on conditions. The standard route was no good and success would require a much more challenging and steeper route.

Day 3
Due to the daytime heat, we opted to rest and use the day to acclimate before having an early dinner and setting out for a 9pm start toward our objective. This allowed everyone to recuperate their energy reserves, and to mentally prepare for the big day. It also gave us the best possible snow conditions for the climb and descent of Mt. Rainier. We were roped up and ready to climb by 8:40pm and climbed through the night.

Day 4 – The Climb
We started out onto the Emmons Glacier via the standard bridge crossing out of camp. This was straight forward and the crossing over to “The Corridor” at 10,200’ was simple. This is where the reports of hazardous conditions and weak bridges were coming from. The climbing rangers advised us that staying climbers right in the more exposed terrain was the best path, as opposed to the typical “up the middle” path.

Part way up The Corridor, I checked my altimeter and realized that we were going to make it. The team had ample time to rest and everyone was climbing strong. We were moving up the mountain faster than expected while maintaining a sustainable pace.

At the top of The Corridor, the standard route leads climbers right to the “The Alpine Meadow”. The heat of the previous two weeks had obliterated this path, and it was in a right state. The alternate was to head climbers left into a large, steep bowl. This proved straightforward, but steep and icy. The cramponing was excellent, but the grade was unrelenting. For hours, we toiled upward; traversing and climbing slopes that make the standard route look easy. We trended far right at the top of the bowl to cross the final bergschrund, and reached the summit at about 5:30am.

We had climbed through the night, seeing both an amazing sunset and a glorious sunrise on route. The descent took us a fair amount of time, as the slopes were so steep. After some food, rest and packing up camp, we headed out to the parking lot and the Edgeworks van.

The trip was a great success and we are super excited for next season!

Gear Review: August 2018

Metolius Upshot Belay Glasses

by Abbie Madlem

Our newer, taller walls bring better endurance training, new styles of routes, and all new projects! Unfortunately, this can also mean serious neck pain for your belayer.

Feeling the strain of the new wall and looking for a little relief?

Metolius’ Upshot Belay Glasses have got your back! These belay glasses are an updated take on the original, with a field of vision that aims higher on the wall, sports-style temples with low profile nose pads that fit better over glasses/sunglasses, and increased peripheral vision. They also come with a durable case that will protect them when you throw them in your bag for a day of climbing in the gym OR at the crag.

Next time you’re in the gym, ask about trying them out. Your neck will thank you!

 

Member Spotlight: July 2018

LaCrystal Wooten-Wisse

Member since 2016

How did you start climbing?

LaCrystal: I started climbing when I was younger at various camps however it wasn’t until two years ago when I decided that I wanted a new hobby that I returned to climbing.

Why do you climb at Edgeworks?

LaCrystal: I climb at Edgeworks because of the community. I love how friendly everyone is at Edgeworks. It really helps that Edgeworks is close to home so it makes it convenient.

Where is your favorite place to climb outside?

LaCrystal: I really enjoy climbing at Exit 32. Little Si was already one of my favorite places to go hiking for a quick hiking trip with my friends and family but climbing there has made it even more special.

What do you do when you’re not climbing?

LaCrystal: I’m often doing yoga; especially hot yoga because I love the warmth. I also really enjoy going hiking and reading in my spare time.

Which do you prefer: top rope, lead, or bouldering?

LaCrystal: I prefer top rope but am currently trying to push myself into leading more.

What are some interesting facts that you’d like to share with the Edgeworks community?

LaCrystal: I’ve been a vegetarian for the past 13 years.

What’s your go-to route grade?

LaCrystal: It depends on the day but I really enjoy the 5.11 range normally.